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 Peak:  Capitol Peak
 Route:  ridge direct to ne ridge
 Range:  Elk
 Posted By:  zootloopz
 Date of Info:  9/23/2023
 Date Posted:  9/24/2023

plenty of snow present on the north face above 13k and many pockets of shaded terrain all over the route. brought spikes, only used them once near the saddle on the way back. I'd recommend bringing them depending on your comfort level.

ridge direct from saddle to k2 took 2 hours. plenty of class 4 and exposure to be found.

saw someone trundle a very large boulder and the subsequent dust storm along the face around 13,800'. be sure to test your rock and be conscious of people that might be above you.

Comments or Questions
Ridge Direct?
9/25/2023 11:00am
Thanks for the update! Did you continue along the ridge direct from the knife edge to the summit? If so, how was it? (both conditions, and general climbing) A friend and I want to try the ridge direct all the way from the Daly saddle to the summit next weekend. We enjoyed the LB-Blanca traverse several weeks ago.

9/28/2023 11:08am
unfortunately my partner was not game for continuing ridge direct past k2. would like to do it next time. please post a conditions update or trip report if you go so i can follow up! looks like maybe one section of ~40 feet of 5.0 soloing.

from saddle to k2 was pretty straightforward. 2 headwalls that can be taken on climbers left ”arete”. pretty narrow ridge after the 2nd headwall that requires focus.

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