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 Peak:  Capitol Peak
 Route:  Northeast Ridge
 Range:  Elk
 Posted By:  constipated_pete
 Date of Info:  9/9/2023
 Date Posted:  9/11/2023

Snowfield crossing after Daly saddle was nothing to worry about. Busy busy day on the peak, including people with no helmets and lots of groups heading up from K2 at noon.
Full sphincter shrinker of a day.

Comments or Questions
9/11/2023 1:15pm
Not sure what the problem with going up from K2 at noon is? It's September, there was 0 thunderstorm risk in the forecast (or in the actual sky, I assume. At least that was the case on Wilsons). Or you are more concerned with people going in 2 directions at the same time on the knife's edge?

Also, how busy is ”busy busy”? 10? 20? 50 people? Considering if it is worth doing this one on the workday (assuming the snow melts).

p.s. Also, the sphincter comment kind of works well with your username

risk tolerance
9/12/2023 10:40am
People are allowed to start climbing whenever they like and not use helmets, I don't think it gives much of a safety margin in case things go wrong. I like alpine starts and climbing with a helmet
There were 5-10 people on the summit mountain before us and another ~10 people climbing up after us. We saw another 10-20 people going up near K2 / knife edge around noon when we were descending.

9/17/2023 3:24pm
Not wearing helmet is associated with risk, ”coming up at noon” is not. Alpine starts are great when they have a reason, usually, either snow conditions or thunderstorms, neither of which apply here. Otherwise, alpine starts are not any safer than any other starts (unless maybe if you go through technical parts in the dark, which again is not really the case when ”people are coming up at noon”).

Anyway, to each their own, I guess. Thanks for the extra info!

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