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 Peak:  North Eolus (Unranked)
 Route:  South Ridge
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  mjordan
 Date of Info:  7/1/2023
 Date Posted:  7/4/2023
Details

Summited on July 1st and it was quite a spicy climb getting up to the notch before the summit scramble.

We had just done Windom and Sunlight so it was about 11am while we were heading up N Eolus. Its continuous snow and there is no trail starting around 12,600ft until you get to the notch.

At 13,400 on the ramp part of the trail it is continuous snow and a no-fall zone for about 100 yards traversing above the cliffs. We all did it with only micro spikes and trekking poles. The snow was soft so we were able to kick steps into the snow and traverse slowly. Im really not sure whether it would be better to do this in the morning when its icy or later when the snow is soft, I think its pick your poison and dont fall on the ramp whatever you do.

The notch and ridge scramble are completely dry. We summited N Eolus then tagged Eolus and glisadded down from the bottom of the ramp around 3pm.



#1) Looking up towards the ramp#2) Snow crossing above the ramp


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