Peak:  Little Bear Peak (14er)
 Route:  West Ridge and Southwest Face
 Range:  Sangre de Cristo
 Posted By:  spadflyer12
 Date of Info:  09/29/2013
 Date Posted:  09/30/2013

The gully to get up to 12,600 has quite a bit of snow and requires micro spikes, an axe is useful on the way down.

The hourglass is covered in loose ice and snow and has a pretty strong stream running underneath the frozen stuff. We ascended the West Ridge Direct and descended the hourglass. I ended up repairing about 5 core shots in the fixed line which is getting to be very rotten. The descent off of Little Bear to start the traverse is covered in snow and very dangerous.

Photos (click for slideshow):
Image #1

 Comments or Questions
mountain hiker

snow in the hourglass & the beginning of traverse?
09/30/2013 16:58
How much snow/ice is there? Do you think the snow is going to melt significantly in a few days?


Re: snow in the hourglass
09/30/2013 17:04
There were some knee-high drifts of snow in the hourglass and some slabs of ice that looked maybe an inch or so thick. With the warmer temps over the next few days it might clear out, but that area doesn't get a whole lot of sun this time of year. With the snow / ice melt it was also shedding rocks like you wouldn't believe.

The traverse had a lot more snow than I had anticipated, all of the nice cracks that I had used last time to descend were filled in with snow, so I don't think that those will clear out anytime soon.

mountain hiker

Re: snow in the hourglass
09/30/2013 18:03

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