Mostly good conditions with a few exceptions. A few spots in and above the hourglass were very thin, requiring some mixed climbing. The choke point in the hourglass only had 1-2" snow on top of slab and likely won't be there in a day or two and what snow remains was sloughed around by us so isn't very supportive anymore. We found the crux to be an exposed rock section just above the hourglass covered with patchy snow, ice, and loose rock, as it required a few class 3-4 moves that were pretty sketchy given the conditions and steepness of the terrain. The final pitch to the summit was the steepest with the current snow conditions, rivaled by the loaded upper section of the first couloir from the lake. We didn't measure, but thinking 50-deg plus. There were also a couple mildly icy sections that were sketchy but still allowed front points. Would not recommend this route after another day or two knowing how quickly things are melting. But if you do go, start very early, snow softens by noon. We started at 3:45a and it took us 8hr 15 min lake-to-lake with breaking trail and kicking in steps. We did see one other group getting a very late start.. hoping they faired okay on the way down. And WEAR A HELMET, PEOPLE! We enjoyed this route, but would definitely never do it again, and would never ever consider setting foot on this route in the summer. The hourglass is a designed funnel deathtrap. This is not a peak to do if you're just looking to check it off your list.
Regarding gear: full packs, mix of summer and winter conditions. Boots to lake, snowshoes around the lake and up to camp near the base of the first couloir, crampons and axe for most of remaining route, but did switch to spikes for the "traverse". Avvy danger was low, but we also brought beacons, probes, shovels, because why not? Mountaineering boots and semi/auto crampons highly recommended (I rented and would not have felt safe with my stiff-but-not hiking boots and strap-on crampons).
 
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