Peak:  Mt. Sneffels (14er)
 Route:  From Yankee Boy Basin
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  Wyoming Bob
 Date of Info:  05/06/2011
 Date Posted:  05/10/2011

Attempted Sneffels on May 6th. Conditions were . . . road closure is 3.5 miles from the hard road out of Ouray. (I think this gives about a 7 miles one way distance for the climb) Road is snow covered all the way from the closure but for perhaps 100 yards near the bottom. There is a dozer parked at the closure but the road being open to the Camp Bird was a pipe dream. Maybe later . . .

The snow gets deep after the cut out section of the shelf road, talking 3 to 6 feet. We had night frozen snow for the approach through the 2WD Th and through the 4WD TH with a 5 a.m. start. The snow went to $#!) for us about 1/2 mile beyond the upper TH.

The Lavender Col was loosening and the upper arm was a mire of softening snow. Our alpine start was late, too late for our chosen route to have any hope of nice steps, instead we "kicked" those soft compacted "steps" you hope hold in warming conditions. We turned the climb at the top of the left arm of the Col, just short of the summit, due to lack of ability to get a belay in to make the final sloping rock climb (covered with snow) So close but . . . no cigar.

Many wet sloughs in evidence in valley so we stayed low on the outbound leg, on snow shoes all the way out. Flotation was excellent with shoes, no fun without.

Standard Climbing with Bob narrative can be found HERE with photos of current conditions.

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