Backpacked in on the 4th, summitted on the 5th. Route is completely dry aside from C2 couloir which contained extremely variable snow. We ascended C3 in the morning and descended C2 at 11 AM. The upper section was white snow that was softer and easier to safely kick into or carefully glissade. The lower section was brownish snow that was BULLETPROOF and required 5-6 kicks per foot to establish any sort of trench (if not using crampons). C2 is not safe with the brownish snow unless you have crampons and an ice ax. No signs of wet sluffing or rollers in the couloir.
|