Peak:  Little Bear Peak (14er)
 Route:  West Ridge and Southwest Face
 Range:  Sangre de Cristo
 Posted By:  mrschaible
 Date of Info:  05/04/2013
 Date Posted:  05/05/2013

The road to Lake Como was dry until you reached Lake Como. The snow is hard packed by the lake in the morning but gets soft in the afternoon and post holing is a problem. The couloir to the ridge line in snow packed and makes it easy to climb (and a great glissade down). The ridge is devoid of snow and dry. The hourglass is full of snow (still very steep) and has good steps up to the summit. The snow gets soft in the afternoon so we had post holing on the way down to the ridge line. The nice thing is there is no falling rock! I do not think the snow will last much longer, so if you want a good climb, go now! Crampons and ice axes mandatory, snow shoes won't be of any value.

 Comments or Questions

Snow wont last much longer ....
05/05/2013 17:21
Do you think it will hold up for a week at least?


Snow condition
05/05/2013 17:38
I doubt it. It was melting like no tomorrow when we were on it. It is not super deep in a few places that will make it quite challenging when it melts down to the rock. We were able to keep crampons on all the way to the summit and only had a very short span we had to cross on rock. By next weekend, you will have substantial rock showing that makes for slippery conditions and require removal of crampons. This is only for the hour glass. The lower couloir is in the shade and should be there for some time. The hourglass is in the direct sun and you could really hear the water running under the snow as you climb and the snow was really slushy ( so much so that I doubt you could self arrest if you fall). This could change if it stays cloudy or we get more snow.


Snow on LB
05/05/2013 20:24
Well, the upcoming weather forecast for the Sangres shows cool temps and overcast skies, so it could hold out. Friday, we could hear water under the snow in the Hourglass choke but it was still snow, not down to ice, yet. Once it melts to the ice in that smooth area, climbing to the rap station will be much more difficult.

I certainly wouldn't rule out snow in the Hourglass through next weekend but you may get a better idea after seeing trip reports from the past couple of days.


Thanks mrschaible and Bill
05/06/2013 02:07
Hoping for the best!

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