Peak:  Crestone Peak (14er)
 Route:  Crestones Traverse
 Range:  Sangre de Cristo
 Posted By:  ChrisinAZ
 Date of Info:  09/16/2012
 Date Posted:  09/17/2012

Approaching from S Colony Lakes, the climb up BHP had a few inches of snow starting at around 12500'. Getting up to the pass is very doable, but microspikes are recommended.

As of Sunday, the standard routes up both the Peak and the Needle, as well as "E Crestone", were virtually completely free of snow from BHP. No special gear needed. Watch for patches of slick ice on either route in the morning.

"NE Crestone" was more difficult to approach, as the north side of the Crestones holds several inches of snow--enough to be treacherous, but not enough where ice axe and crampons would be useful. We had to approach above the couloir on low 5th class rock, though once the saddle between "E Crestone" and "NE Crestone" was attained, the climb was straightforward and snow-free.

The traverse was almost entirely snow-free, though there were a few inches of snow on the part of the traverse in the gully to the R of the Black Gendarme, as well as the first set of ledges after the short knife edge.

This information is current as of Sunday; a bit of precipitation is supposed to fall today, but with good weather the rest of the week, these conditions are likely to hold through next weekend. A TR is forthcoming...

 Comments or Questions

09/18/2012 00:26
From the SLV, some snow is still visible on the north side of Crestone Peak as of the 17th. Unlike other areas in the Sangres it does not appear to have gotten any new snow today.


N side
09/18/2012 14:12
The snow that was on the N side of the Crestones looked like it was unlikely to melt anytime soon--it's probably there to stay. White stuff on other north-facing peaks in the area with not-so-vertical faces and more sun exposure should see at least some melting out. BHP will probably be snowy at least to an extent for the foreseeable future too.


09/19/2012 15:14
for the update. climbing this weekend

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