Peak:  Mt. Bancroft (13er)
 Route:  E Ridge
 Range:  Front
 Posted By:  Monster5
 Date of Info:  07/22/2012
 Date Posted:  07/22/2012

Upper webbing looks a bit ratty. Lower webbing bundle/ring 15‘ down is in good condition. A 30m rope would probably make it down the lower rap.

The 5.2 section has a stuck nut half way up that can be clipped. If bootied or loosened, the crack to the left takes a #1 C4 well. Clipped the one piece and didn‘t place anything else, ‘sides for the anchor. It‘s pretty short.

The rest of the ridge offers plenty of good scrambling. It could probably be kept at class 3ish with route finding, but there are numerous options.

Bancroft to Parry and Eva is a dry tundra/talus walk. Getting down to Fall River Res and up to Loch Lomond is interesting. If the weather holds, it may be better to side hill Parry and Bancroft and return via Bancroft‘s SE ridge.


 Comments or Questions
I Man

07/23/2012 17:52
Thought we were waiting to do this together

Haha, glad you had fun though


07/23/2012 18:02
You probably would have missed the descent route and kept on going to Berthoud Pass


07/31/2012 13:45
So you started from Loch Lomond then? What do you think the best start would be with a 2wd car? And about how much distance would it add? I was thinking just further down on the road to Loch Lomond. And while maybe adding a mile or two on the approach, I figured it would make the return from the Fall River Reservoir shorter and easier. Opinions?


07/31/2012 15:24
A 2wd car would make it to the Steuart Rd junction, which isn't so bad as the Rainbow Rd from Fall River has a connector right there that'll take you to your car. I'm guessing it adds a couple miles to the ascent and under a mile to the descent. That's probably how I'd do it with 2WD. It would make the descent easier with less uphill bushwacking.

Also, there's a headwall immediately prior to Fall River Res. We descended on the north side through bushwacky, steep, landslide terrain, but I think a faint trail might've been on descender's right near the stream knick-point.


Thanks, Ryan
08/01/2012 13:35

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