|Peak:||Mt. Meeker (13er)|
|Date of Info:||06/23/2012|
Meeker Ridge->Meeker->Longs->Pagoda->Storm Peak B
Dry or avoidable snow; no gear used.
Iron Gates: Dry, class 2+ talus hop.
Meeker Ridge to Meeker: Dry, exposed class 3, obvious route-finding. Solid rock. Not fun with wind.
Upper Clark's arrow route: One c4 move, mostly c2+/3. One snow patch past the notch: bypass left (downhill) before joining Homestretch. The Loft "couloir" looked mostly dry with small, avoidable patches.
Homestretch: Dry, more like exposed c2+.
Route to Pagoda: Descended left at base of Homestretch before cutting back right beneath the Narrows cliffs (c2). Aimed for the saddle and encountered a sizable hidden cliff band - moved left (after getting cliffed out trying other routes) to descend a large, prominent gully (c3). Moved right (towards saddle) below major cliffs and above minor ones before a talus hop from the saddle up Pagoda (c2). The re-ascent of Longs is annoying. Reverse the route but climb a left-angling weakness to intersect the Keyboard of the Winds ridge, which can be followed to the top of the Trough (exposed c3).
Trough: Dry or easily avoided snow. Loose c2/3. Smells like a sewer in spots.
Ledges: Dry. Moderately exposed 2/3. The bulls-eyes are pretty hard to miss.
Keyhole to Storm and down: c3, annoying talus hop. Bypass towers on the right side. Lingering snow to avoid on the descent as they hide leg-breakers.
Other obs: Notch Couloir is in with a dry chimney. Small snow patches on Broadway. Dreamweaver is pretty much out. Nothing in Martha.