Peak:  Mt. Wilson (14er)
 Route:  North Slopes
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  sstratta
 Date of Info:  05/19/2012
 Date Posted:  05/20/2012

Climbed the north face of Mt. Wilson from the Navajo TH yesterday. The trail is dry all the way to the lake (with a few small minor snow patches), and after that it's a mix of snow/dry spots. Navajo Lake is about halfway melted out. The north face is still holding lots of snow...I climbed up and down the north face direct instead of staying on the northeast ridge. Above the face though it's mostly dry up to the summit, although there are a few snow and ice patches on the class 3/4 section. If you want to go around the class 4 "crux" to keep it class 3 you will encounter some snow. I brought snowshoes but never needed them. Crampons and ice axe are necessary though for the north face and northeast ridge. The north face of El Diente still has lots of snow as well, but the south side from Kilpacker is mostly dry. The Kilpacker and Slate Creek approaches for Mt. Wilson looked like they still had a descent amount of snow in the upper basins. The Wilson/El Diente traverse looked pretty dry. Over on the Rock of Ages Saddle and Wilson Peak you'd encounter intermittent snow patches on the standard route.

 Comments or Questions

Thanks for the beta
05/20/2012 16:13
This was the exact beta I was looking for. Thanks for posting.



Many thanks
05/20/2012 17:40
for the you imagine most of the snow on El Diente's north face will have melted off in the next month? Any pictures you have (of the Peaks, Gladstone, or the traverse) would also be much appreciated!


05/20/2012 18:54
Yeah I'm working on a trip report now that'll have pictures, and if my internet cooperates I should have it up hopefully in the near future. Not sure how the snow will be on El Diente's north face in a month...I imagine there might still be patches here and there but a lot of it should melt if it stays warm. For what it's worth though, during the summer/fall I'd much rather climb up the south face of El Diente than the north face...the loose rock is much easier to deal with. Right now the south face looked pretty dry, so in a month it'll probably be good to go. There was still a little bit of snow on the traverse, but a large portion of it was dry...I'll include a picture of it in the TR.

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