Capital Peak Rescue?

[Kiefer]

This isn't the kind of thing I post, but....

Someone else read this please and confirm I read this right. Descending the NW Buttress??

Solo climber rescued on Aspen’s Capitol Peak | AspenTimes.com https://www.aspentimes.com/news/solo-cl ... itol-peak/

[Justin9]

Descending the NW buttress? Huh, I assumed they were trying to free solo up. Whatever works, I guess. These stories somehow continue to become more and more unbelievable!

[gb]

The way I read it, yes, they were going up but stalled out for whatever reason and then had to downclimb. I would think that anyone attempting that route solo would have pretty exceptional skills. Maybe they do, things happen.

[daway8]

So my read was that the climber was going up the route but got cold hands/feet and had to bail but presumably because of the cold hands/feet was unable to safely descend and so called for help.

The route description says there are 3 different 150ft pitches of 5.6-5.7 which to me at least sounds like really serious terrain to do in winter (and honestly fairly serious even in summer). I've dabbled in some short, easy class 5 sections in winter but would not feel confident on a route like this, in part because it would be hard to climb well in bulky gloves but hard to keep your hands warm when in lighter gloves for an extended period.

I'm curious for those who do venture into terrain like this in winter, how do you keep your hands warm? When I've done my dabbling (such as Little Bear West Ridge Direct, or Crestone Needle's "I-suck-at-navigating" variation) I've typically worn something like OR Stormtracker gloves with warm liners underneath (plus maybe handwarmers - the Grabber ones, not the cheap Walmart version...) while I'm on the rocky sections, then replace the OR's with something more beefy after I'm back on snow or easier terrain.

For a better climber than me, maybe a few 150ft sections of 5.7 wouldn't be considered a big deal but with bits of snow/ice lurking in the cracks it seems like it would be really easier to freeze your hands on a route like that. So I'm curious if serious climbers have special gear to be able to climb effectively but still keep your hands warms on a route like this in winter?

Or is the preferred glove named: "WaitForSummer"?

[justiner]

I thought the NW Butt was rated 5.9? That’s ballsy to do in winter, alone, solo for anyone. Bringing some bail gear would seem prudent as it sounds like a lot of one way moves.

So which trail runners were they wearing?

[Kiefer]

The way I read it, yes, they were going up but stalled out for whatever reason and then had to downclimb. I would think that anyone attempting that route solo would have pretty exceptional skills. Maybe they do, things happen.

Think you're right. Attempting that solo in winter, you better have some skills & cred. SUPER curious who it was. And to hear the story.

[seannunn]

post withdrawn.

[Jorts]

It's definitely 5.9. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/1 ... t-buttress

Considering how warm and windless the valleys have been the last few days it probably felt less like a winter ascent and more an autumn climb. Soloing an alpine multipitch 5.9 is big league.

[daway8]

I just reached for Roach for the rating - guess that was inaccurate.

At 5.9 that makes me even more curious who on earth would try to solo that route in winter - even a dry/warm winter like this, since the Elks are one of the few places that got hit much more often than the rest of the state this winter...

After skimming Mountain Project - yikes - that would be gutsy soloing that route in summer!

[Sebastian61818]

All i can say is this was me and it was a waste of sars time at the end of the day and i feel bad about it.

[ekalina]

All i can say is this was me and it was a waste of sars time at the end of the day and i feel bad about it.

Obviously I don't know the details, but if calling SAR when you did prevented them from having to rescue you injured or do a body recovery, it was not a waste of their time whatsoever. I'm sure some mistakes were made that got you into a situation requiring rescue, but realizing you're in over your head and need help before downclimbing to your death is one decision you should applaud yourself for. Glad you're ok.

[gb]

At 5.9 that makes me even more curious who on earth would try to solo that route in winter

I should just let Sebastian61818 answer, but the route is known as being pretty chossy. So one strategy is to do it in the winter when everything is glued together with ice. That's why some of the first ascents on Cap's North face as well as Pyramid's North face were done in winter. Names like Stammberger, Kennedy, and Dawson...

Glad you're ok Sebastian61818. As a SAR member (not MRA), I'd say it's never a waste of time- we'd rather get that call early, before something is a true emergency.