Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

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Hiking_TheRockies
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Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

Post by Hiking_TheRockies »

I'm looking for a pair of crampons. I currently have semi-auto compatible boots, and Petzl crampons were pretty much the best ones I found that would be semi and full-auto compatible (in case I wanted to do some more serious stuff with a full heel/toe bail boot). I was pretty sold on the sarkens, but just found some Lynx on sale for a great price, and am now torn between the two.

I'm mainly going to be doing spring couloir climbing. However, there are a couple future routes that I am eyeing that could involve steeper snow and mixed. I also am the sort of guy who thinks taking off crampons for a short section of scrambling before putting them on again is stupid, so these crampons will likely see rock. From what I've read, Sarkens are great all-around crampons, but are pretty shaky on ice. I'm not going to be doing much waterfall climbing, but it would be nice to own a pair of crampons that could do that. Lynx look like total mixed/ice beasts, but would it be a waste to own them if 90% of my crampon use is on normal old snow? Are they even decent crampons for the good old side step/french technique/duck walk on forty degree snow?

Anyone here who has owned either crampon, or other crampons? Potential "mixed/rock" routes that I am thinking about include Ypsilon y couloir right branch, dreamweaver, and skywalker. Maybe a snowy kieners. Besides that, I'll pretty much be on spring snow. Thoughts?
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Re: Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

Post by Conor »

I don't know about those specific models. but, get steel crampons, 12 points with horizontal toe points. If I remember correctly, petzl sells toe bails which can change from auto to semi-auto. Other brands don't. Although, I would just stick with semi-auto.

I've climbed the following with my equivalent model of the above: dreamweaver, kautz, mitteligi, cosmiques, etc.
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Re: Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

Post by GK83 »

I have both, for what you're doing Sarkens are the right choice, they climb ice just fine and would honestly be much better than the Lynx on the routes you have listed, if you ever get into hard WI climbing get a fully automatic crampon with vertical front points for that, but most of what you listed has minimal if any vertical ice, the Lynx work but are heavy and less than ideal on snow.
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Re: Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

Post by seano »

I’m with the others here: Sarkens are what you want for general mountaineering. I’ve used mine on everything from glacier walks to couloirs like you mention to some WI 3-4, and they’re just fine. I could certainly go lighter with something aluminum, but I like to be able to scramble over rocks without fear of wearing them out too quickly.
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Re: Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

Post by Ericsheffey »

I have Sarkens for general mountaineering and they will be great for those objectives you listed. I do also climb ice, and use Petzl Darts for that, but you can certainly TR or follow up to WI3/4 in Sarkens if you need to. Vertical front points won't be as useful for general mountaineering though. And then if you start climbing more ice and are ready to get crampons with vertical front points, the front sections on Petzl crampons are modular/interchangable, so you can just buy some Dart front plates to put on your Sarkens.
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Re: Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

Post by Hiking_TheRockies »

Thanks all for responses. Sounds like Sarkens are the way to go. :thumbup:
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Re: Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

Post by pvnisher »

By the time you need vertical front points you'll also be well on your way with new boots, tools, gloves, harness, etc!
12 point steel, semi auto, with bail plate, is the thing you want, pick your brand and be sure they fit your boots, otherwise not a ton of difference that I've seen.

And not everyone does this, but I purposefully dull the "big toe" front point a bit.
It makes no difference on snow, and protects your calves and pants a bit more.
For those who will say "but now you don't have as much dexterity!" I say, yes, but again, if you're standing on a single point, or legit kicking water ice, then it's a different game than snow climbs.
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Re: Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

Post by Boggy B »

pvnisher wrote: Wed Dec 27, 2023 12:51 pm And not everyone does this, but I purposefully dull the "big toe" front point a bit.
It makes no difference on snow, and protects your calves and pants a bit more.
For those who will say "but now you don't have as much dexterity!" I say, yes, but again, if you're standing on a single point, or legit kicking water ice, then it's a different game than snow climbs.
Having encountered varying amounts of alpine ice on numerous Colorado snow climbs (including some with a thousand feet of snow interrupted by 30 - 40 feet of legit kicking water ice), I can't recommend deliberately ruining your mountaineering crampons in this manner. Front points don't grow back.
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Re: Petzl sarkens vs lynx crampons

Post by pvnisher »

They absolutely grow back with a file.

Rounding the tip by taking off a half millimeter of steel is less than you'll lose with one summer climb in the Alps or Rainier.
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