Eiger Mittellegi Ridge

Discussion area for peaks outside of the USA
Forum rules
  • This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
  • Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
  • Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
  • Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
For more details, please see the Terms of Use you agreed to when joining the forum.
Post Reply
User avatar
Justin9
Posts: 229
Joined: 2/21/2011
14ers: 58  2  5 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Eiger Mittellegi Ridge

Post by Justin9 »

Wondering if anyone has been up Mittellegi Ridge in the last few years. We are headed there in August and I am making final plans for gear and would appreciate any first hand knowledge. I am specifically interested in learning about the rap length out of the tunnel at Eismeer station and the South Ridge descent and if a 40m rope will make thoes raps. If it will not, Ill be taking my 70m, but prefer not to carry the weight. As always, anything you learned on your trip that might be shared is always valuable.
pvnisher
Posts: 1748
Joined: 9/28/2006
Trip Reports (8)
 

Re: Eiger Mittellegi Ridge

Post by pvnisher »

It will depend on the snow conditions. Especially out of eismeer. Sometimes the rap and subsequent climb are very short (with snow covering the first rock moves up). Other years, not so much.
User avatar
chamonix
Posts: 4
Joined: 5/29/2009
14ers: 49 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Eiger Mittellegi Ridge

Post by chamonix »

2 hours to the hut from the tunnel. No crampons necessary most of the time. Bag your crampons, however, for some sections of the ridge. 4 hours up (fixed on the most technical stretches), exposed, crampons required. 5 hours down. Go with an experienced climber. Not a place for novices. I did it solo, therefore did not carry any rope. A 40-meter rope should be plenty from Eismeer to the hut. 30-meter max on the ridge.
User avatar
Justin9
Posts: 229
Joined: 2/21/2011
14ers: 58  2  5 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Eiger Mittellegi Ridge

Post by Justin9 »

chamonix wrote:2 hours to the hut from the tunnel. No crampons necessary most of the time. Bag your crampons, however, for some sections of the ridge. 4 hours up (fixed on the most technical stretches), exposed, crampons required. 5 hours down. Go with an experienced climber. Not a place for novices. I did it solo, therefore did not carry any rope. A 40-meter rope should be plenty from Eismeer to the hut. 30-meter max on the ridge.
Thanks for the info. Sounds exactly like what I am expecting. What route did you descend?
User avatar
chamonix
Posts: 4
Joined: 5/29/2009
14ers: 49 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Eiger Mittellegi Ridge

Post by chamonix »

South Ridge to Jungfraujoch.
Have fun!!
logwes21
Posts: 1
Joined: 9/25/2020
14ers: 41  1  1 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Eiger Mittellegi Ridge

Post by logwes21 »

chamonix wrote: Tue Apr 04, 2017 7:59 am 2 hours to the hut from the tunnel. No crampons necessary most of the time. Bag your crampons, however, for some sections of the ridge. 4 hours up (fixed on the most technical stretches), exposed, crampons required. 5 hours down. Go with an experienced climber. Not a place for novices. I did it solo, therefore did not carry any rope. A 40-meter rope should be plenty from Eismeer to the hut. 30-meter max on the ridge.
Thanks for the beta. I will be climbing it with a group of 3 and was wondering if a 70 m single rope will be sufficient (climbing caterpillar style). Are any of the pitches to the hut or along the ridge greater than 30 m that would require climbing with two twin ropes? Thanks
Post Reply