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Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 9:01 am
by benlen
Hey 14er folks,

So I've been browsing old forum topics, which generally talk broadly about "should you use approach shoes?" but I haven't (at least in my search) found a topic that addresses routes like Capitol Peak, Maroon Bells, or Little Bear specifically, and the merits (or lack thereof) of using a grippy approach shoe for those summits.

For those who have climbed those peaks, here's my question: I have a pair of Salomon 4D GTX hiking boots. Easily my most comfortable hiking boot. But the boot is insanely mediocre for scrambling, and I've taken my sweet time when I used it on Class 3 approaches. I just don't have much confidence in the Contagrip sole, and the boot has a bulky toe as well that makes it ill fitting for wedging into tight areas.

For something like Capitol, a class 4, should I consider an approach shoe for adding confidence on the Knife Edge?

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 9:15 am
by dpage
I like approach shoes for most all of my scrambles but I'm sure somebody will post about their love of worn out combat boots and the need to have better technique with tips on how to walk.

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 9:58 am
by jasayrevt
I'm a mountaineering novice but I felt comfortable on these 14er peaks with the Solomon Speedcross Trailrunner Shoes. The Contagrip system works extremely well for getting to the summits. They're high-quality, lightweight, flexible, and durable. A good mix for swift travel in the hills.

Once you get to undertaking these tougher peaks, you'll be fine. They really are actually quite enjoyable, rewarding, and not too bad at all. Excellent views from the top.

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 10:00 am
by GeezerClimber
Any good hiking boot in good condition is fine for any standard 14er route. I use Asolos myself but that's just personal preference for comfort.

Dave

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 10:34 am
by polar
I'm a big fan of approach shoes, but I'm pretty sure the Knife Edge on Capitol has been done in ski boots before.

Image

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 10:35 am
by herdbull
Having been up Capitol I don't think my footwear choice would have made a difference in the outcome. Any/all of the choices I had available to me out of my gaggle of footwear would have sufficed.

I have everything from Salomon Speedcross trail runners, Asolo Fugitives, a couple La Sportiva options. I believe I was wearing the Fugitives due to little extra pack load I was hauling to get in there. They worked. I can't recall on any route I've done where I brought a different pair of footwear for the final approach or for a certain section of the hike/climb. I've always just wore whatever I had on when I left the vehicle or camp.

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 11:08 am
by tlee83
I did Capitol last summer and appreciated having my approach shoes on the knife edge. I would recommend them over hiking boots.

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 11:18 am
by youngk2844
No problems on a dry knife edge with vibram sole hiking boots. A wet knife edge....

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 11:38 am
by TallGrass
benlen wrote:Salomon 4D GTX hiking boots ... insanely mediocre for scrambling
How so? If they worked on Ellingwood for you, don't see why they wouldn't on those peaks.

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 11:48 am
by benlen
TallGrass wrote:
benlen wrote:Salomon 4D GTX hiking boots ... insanely mediocre for scrambling
How so? If they worked on Ellingwood for you, don't see why they wouldn't on those peaks.

I should clarify, on Ellingwood I used a pair of La Sportiva Wildcats (the first four of my 14ers, I believe, I used those running shoes)––it was a rather nasty wet day, which is why I went back to Goretex boots for most of my hikes.


tlee83 wrote:I did Capitol last summer and appreciated having my approach shoes on the knife edge. I would recommend them over hiking boots.

Interesting––if you don't mind, which approach shoes do you prefer? Did you wear the approach shoes for the entire climb

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 12:33 pm
by falcon568
I've done a lot of scrambling in regular old hiking boots, and they worked fine, but last year I switched to using a pair of approach shoes for the more challenging routes. I did the Bells traverse, Capitol, Shuksan (the rock parts), and the 1st pitch on Ellingwood Arete in my 5.10 Guide Tennies and was really impressed with how well they climb. Plus, they're comfortable, so there's that. Downside is that they wear pretty quickly and will get smoked long before your hiking boots.

Re: Approach Shoes for Capitol Peak?

Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 12:56 pm
by Brian C
benlen wrote:...But the boot is insanely mediocre for scrambling, and I've taken my sweet time when I used it on Class 3 approaches...
If you don't feel comfortable on class 3 in them you won't feel comfortable on class 4 in them. Your comfort level is much more important than what works for somebody else. If your shoes are not to your liking then you won't be having a good time no matter how popular they are to other people.

Go try on some shoes (approach and trail runners), find a good pair that feels comfortable, can be snugged up, and has a good sticky sole (Vibram). LaSportiva trail runners (Akasha, Mutant, Helios) are the current go-to for Flatiron speed junkies.