Re: Training for Rainier
Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2025 6:54 am
This advice is GOLD! Thanks
Done the DC twice and several of the routes mentioned. Cristo is a spot on recommendation, particularly given the vert you can get there. As noted, Dead Dog (and Lost Rat) are quite a bit steeper - particularly since you'll very rarely be bootpacking straight up the DC in the same way you might tackle a couloir climb. The route changes, but is generally set to be very friendly. They'd be perfect training though, as I'm sure the rest of these routes that I haven't been on would be as well.ekalina wrote: ↑Wed Jan 15, 2025 9:39 pm On avy safe days in the spring/early summer, recommend some snow climbs. I haven't done Rainier, but some climbs I think would apply would be:
Whale's Tail (Whale Peak)
Cristo (Quandary)
Boudoir (Horseshoe)
Box Creek (Elbert)
Lost Rat (Grays)
Dead Dog (Torreys)
Snow Lion (Jasper)
These will get you on moderate to steep snow. If you're doing Disappointment Cleaver, Dead Dog and Snow Lion may be a bit harder, since those get close to 50 deg and summitpost reports that DC is only 35 deg.
And caution, a fall on these routes would be high consequence, and you should have avy training/gear. Rockfall is a risk...helmets.
There's also the glacier travel aspect, which you can only simulate in Colorado. St. Marys "glacier" could be a good place to demo that.
Are you doing Rainier guided or unguided? If guided, check with your guiding company about what training climbs they'd recommend in Colorado.