Question on climbing Mount Blanc

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Dan_Suitor
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Question on climbing Mount Blanc

Post by Dan_Suitor »

I’m flying to Geneva in late September of 2024. I’m hoping to climb Mount Blanc. From my research, Refuge Du Gouter will be closed, but Tete Rousse will still be open. It’s too early to make reservations though. Has anybody climbed Mount Blanc this time of year? Also, any insights and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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jfm3
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Re: Question on climbing Mount Blanc

Post by jfm3 »

I went to Chamonix this year (August) and made an attempt on Mont Blanc. I'll send you a PM with more info, but for now, here are a few links.

https://montblanc.ffcam.fr/index.php?al ... _setlang=1
You may already know about this site- it's the FFCAM webpage where all the hut bookings are made.

https://meteofrance.com/
General French weather forecast site.

https://en.chamonix.com/
Best collection of webcams I've found for Chamonix.

https://www.chamoniarde.com/en
Conditions reports under "Mountain Topics -> Mountain Conditions" and "Mountain Topics -> Route reports".

People do climb in the fall season (see this video: While it's colder than the summer, the weather can be more stable.
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jrs1965
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Re: Question on climbing Mount Blanc

Post by jrs1965 »

Off topic, but my gf and I had climbed the Grossglockner (Austrian high-point) back in August. We had an amazing time. I'm hoping to get a brief TR up sometime soon...
Grossglockner.jpg
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Re: Question on climbing Mount Blanc

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Scott P
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Re: Question on climbing Mount Blanc

Post by Scott P »

As a disclaimer I haven't climbed Mont Blanc in any month. I do know though that late September has a reputation for the routes on the glaciers (not only on Blanc, but throughout the Alps) to be really broken up and crevasses are at their worst then. Still, people do it then.

A lot of European rock climbers consider mid to late September the time to forget about the glaciated routes and glaciated mountains and head for rock routes. They really cherish mid to late September for the lack of crowds and cold nights which reduce the chances of rockfall on many routes. If you aren't set on Blanc, it might be a good time for some rock climbs.
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Re: Question on climbing Mount Blanc

Post by Chicago Transplant »

I would be leery of the glaciers that late per what Scott notes above regarding opening of crevasses.

We made an attempt via Trois Monts route from Cosmiques Hut in mid August. When we arrived at the hut we were informed that a snow bridge on Mt Maudit had collapsed 5 days earlier and we did not have the technical gear that would have been required to bypass it. Some others were able to make the climb but we settled for Mt Blanc du Tacul (the first of the Trios Monts). Below picture of Maudit and Blanc from Tacul, the collapsed bridge is at the shadow line (marked with arrow) and you can see the debris runout below it. Groups were going to the right along the rocks, we did not check it out and I don't know how difficult that was for them. One group went left and up the rock ridge (surley class 5), we thought maybe the snow chute on that side to the right of the tower could go with ice gear, but again, only saw from afar and did not attempt.

The second image is of the non-collapsed snow bridge on Tacul to give you an idea of scale.
Maudit.jpg
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SnowBridge.jpg
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Re: Question on climbing Mount Blanc

Post by Dan_Suitor »

Thanks for the feedback. The videos give me a better sense of confidence. Looks to be like Rainer, but with more huts and cables. Certainly, the crevasses will be of concern but hopefully being 1 week after the group climbs finish for the season, the trail will be well established.
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