The Wilsons?

[LURE]

That's basically my plan, Sean. Have my heart set on the traverse a little, but we'll see what conditions are like--aiming for the last week of August (somewhere in the 8/20 to 8/23 range; feel free to reach out if that lines up with yours).

Regarding the final crux move onto Mt. Wilson, I happened to see a video last night that argued going straight over the top of the rock--as opposed to going around it left or right--was the easiest solution. Looked reasonable in the footage, though that can be misleading, and certainly less exposed. Anyone have any experience with that or opinion on that idea? video here, at the 11:25 mark: https://youtu.be/KaEc3sAwtqM?t=682

going left seems pretty obvious when you're up there as i recall. i think going over that block is both more committing and more of a reach than he makes it look. i think the fish eye distorts it but going left, gaining that little ledge and doing a class 4 move to the top just makes sense.

Capture2.JPG (121.93 KiB) Viewed 1069 times

i also am not sure you can say it's less exposed, pay attention to his right.

Capture.JPG (164.65 KiB) Viewed 1059 times

the red circle i believe is the platform you find yourself on if you go left to finish climbing up to the summit block. it's incredibly exposed. i've never seen a picture or video that does any amount of justice to the exposure. i don't think going over the block is any less exposed really.

maybe someone who has been up there more and more recently than me can shed more detail. if you go traverse from el d/north slopes there is no way to avoid the exposure on that summit ridge/block. going over/going left i think is a matter of confidence and perhaps skill.

[maff]

Appreciate the feedback and insight! Does look pretty airy no matter what.

[terribletigzy]

I did the traverse last year and did not find this infamous move to be too hard. I went with the directly over/ the right approach. I am 6' and recall being able to reach solid handholds that made the move feel very secure, despite the exposure. This certainly depends on your height and appetite for exposure. The last section is a bit knife edgy, but there are solid holds the whole way.

For me, I found the headwall (photo 22 in the traverse route description) just before this section to be the crux. The rock in this area isn't as solid and the chimney can become harder if you stray from the advised route (like I unintentionally did). I took a line a little bit to the left of what is shown and wouldn't really recommend it.

[Sluglas]

the pucker factor on final mt wilson move from north is way understated IMO. that is a very, very airy few moves. solid rock tho.

I agree. If the northern route is still considered the standard, it is the most exposed section on a Colorado 14er with the possible exception of Sunlight (which is the only one I haven't done).

stay away from north slopes on el d, regretted every minute of that climb.

I thought it was a nice snow climb, but I wouldn't want to do it after the snow melts.

Wilson was my second to the last, but only because a lot of attempts got thwarted for various reasons (one time I climbed up to the wrong notch from Kilpacker Basin, that sucked). In my late 20's and early 30's I did a lot of rock climbing and during that period I did things like the Blanca-Little Bear traverse and the Maroon traverse, Capitol, Pyramid and Sunlight all unroped and in trail running shoes and never got sketched out. 10 years later I did Wilson and it was the one peak where I was really glad after I did the crux move that I never had to do it again. Could be that it is that scary, could also be that I just wasn't the climber I used to be. Either way, it stands out to me as the scariest single move I ever did on a 14er.

[CaptainSuburbia]

Here's a few pics I took of the crux below summit block.

Screenshot_20230607-142732_Photos.jpg (230.47 KiB) Viewed 994 times

Screenshot_20230607-142853_Photos.jpg (227.12 KiB) Viewed 994 times

Screenshot_20230607-142930_Photos.jpg (223.17 KiB) Viewed 994 times

[Jorts]

For Mt Wilson: If you're over 6', go over the top. If not, consider going around the side. I went over the top and it felt solid and relatively easy. Probably wouldn't be as easy of an up and over if you don't have the reach. You can somewhat glean that in the video posted and the photos above.

[LURE]

and honestly, as is often the case, it wasn't going up the summit block that was all that scary, it was coming off it.

it was paralyzing exposure for one of my two partners at the time. definitely a worrying moment turning around to see him freezing up midway needing to be talked down.

[maff]

For Mt Wilson: If you're over 6', go over the top. If not, consider going around the side. I went over the top and it felt solid and relatively easy. Probably wouldn't be as easy of an up and over if you don't have the reach. You can somewhat glean that in the video posted and the photos above.

Yeah that makes sense. I am 6'5" and so going up and over appealed to me immediately; just wanted to make sure it wasn't a crazy idea.

[Wentzl]

the pucker factor on final mt wilson move from north is way understated IMO. that is a very, very airy few moves. solid rock tho.

+1 stay away from north slopes on el d, regretted every minute of that climb.

This difference between North Slopes and North Buttress should be cleaned up on the 14er.com site. The slopes are sloppy and dangerous. The buttress is clean, safe and altogether a more satisfying experience. The North Buttress should be the standard route for El D, but with a caveat. The finish is a little tricky to figure out. There are several tempting exits, but one easy finish. This might be why it has been overlooked, but it isn't hard. Here is a tip. When you can see the end, veer to the right!

[nunns]

OK, I appreciate all the advice. I will say that I am not good at visualizing the topography of all of this, especially sitting here in Kansas City. Am I missing something? That crux move being described looks absolutely terrifying. (Keep in mind I am not great with extreme exposure directly below me.)

But from what I am reading of all the route descriptions on here, it looks like if I just climb Mt. Wilson first from the south (Kilpacker), then I can avoid that terrifying move. Then I can reverse course down to 13000' or so, and climb El D. from the SW from there. Am I right? For me, an extra 1000' of climbing would be preferable to what I am seeing on that crux move.

Sean Nunn

[terribletigzy]

You are correct, the crux move is only required if you come from the North or do the traverse. If you take Mt Wilson's Southwest Slopes you can avoid this move. Instead you will have the joy of climbing a very long scree gully. I would consider El diente to be harder than Mt Wilson from the south. I think the routefinding on El Diente is significantly harder, though I was up there in the dark because I couldn't sleep and went up the wrong gully.

[nunns]

You are correct, the crux move is only required if you come from the North or do the traverse. If you take Mt Wilson's Southwest Slopes you can avoid this move. Instead you will have the joy of climbing a very long scree gully. I would consider El diente to be harder than Mt Wilson from the south. I think the routefinding on El Diente is significantly harder, though I was up there in the dark because I couldn't sleep and went up the wrong gully.

Ahh, mis-navigation of gullies in the dark. I have been there (Little Bear attempt 2020).
I don't particularly love a long scree climb, but for me personally it is better than extreme exposure.

Sean Nunn