Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

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AidanDenniston
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Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by AidanDenniston »

Hello everybody! I am doing my first official class 3 14er. I have done a handful of the easier ones as well as plenty of bouldering, rock climbing and some experience with technical scrambling just not as much with exposure.
Me and my buddy are planning on heading down to the San Juans this upcoming weekend of the 7th. Our main goal is Sneffels and possibly some of the easier peaks in the area if weather is permitting.
I have spent a decent amount of time studying the SW ridge route of Sneffels but as we get closer I am wondering if we should switch to the more beaten path through lavender couloir, given the recent snowfall which I am assuming may continue throughout the week leading into our summit attempt.
I am just wondering how bad the exposure really is? If the sw ridge is still a good option with a crust of snow or ice? (I have done a decent bit of studying Topo maps of the route as well as trip repots for the sw ridge but still am worried about the route finding a bit) And just any further advice with trying to get this beautiful summit.
thank you guys
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BKS
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by BKS »

It’s difficult to provide an answer to your question. The fact that you don’t have class 3 experience, experience with snow and ice,or experience with real mountain exposure should give you some pause. Snow and ice changes things.

Even the standard route has a brief area of fatal exposure. One of the most accomplished and experienced mountaineers on this site spent an hour at the crux v notch building a platform, wishing he had rope and belay partner when facing ice over fatal exposure. There has been at least one fatal accident here. I’m sure the sw ridge has similar spots on a much longer scramble that will need to be downclimbed.

Do you have micro spikes?
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by AidanDenniston »

I do have micro spikes. The v notch I am not too worried about given a little bit of background bouldering and sport climbing, as well as I am 6’3. If I am being naive by my comfort let me know.
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BKS
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by BKS »

Here’s the tr for above reference.

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=4015

The v notch is very mild when dry.
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MaryinColorado
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by MaryinColorado »

In my humble opinion, I think the ideal transition into class 3 is doing it dry. Class 3 is already a step up in risk, in and of itself; no need to add additional risk unnecessarily by doing a committal class 3 route wet.

That said, I would opt for the standard route and not SW ridge since the only class 3 move you'd have to contend with is the v-notch. THAT said, the v-notch is an awkward move over quite a bit of exposure. Given your height and bouldering experience, I imagine it won't be that big of a deal for you, but you'll want to be uber cautious.

Honestly, I found the standard route to be quite enjoyable especially the climb up the lav coolie. Just watch out for verglas. Bring your microspikes. And of course don't forget your helmet. :)
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by NatDog »

I'm not sure where you are coming from or how often you get to hike 14ers, but I would suggest waiting until next summer to hike Sneffels if possible, so that you can do the SW Ridge instead of the standard route. It is an awesome and enjoyable route, even for those that have more class 3 experience. IMO it is much more fun than the standard route, and it would be better to hike in more favorable conditions.

If you are set on hiking it this weekend just make sure to have your microspikes and be willing to turn around if conditions are unsafe. There is some exposure toward the top that isn't too bad when dry, but I wouldn't want to be up there if it's covered in ice, even with microspikes. At this time of year it's even more important to properly assess the conditions on the mountain and to make safe decisions.
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by dwoodward13 »

NatDog wrote: Mon Oct 03, 2022 8:10 am I'm not sure where you are coming from or how often you get to hike 14ers, but I would suggest waiting until next summer to hike Sneffels if possible, so that you can do the SW Ridge instead of the standard route. It is an awesome and enjoyable route, even for those that have more class 3 experience. IMO it is much more fun than the standard route, and it would be better to hike in more favorable conditions.
Agree. Stick to the easier peaks in the area (Handies, Redcloud/Sunshine, or even some of the easier 13ers) and save Sneffels SW Ridge for next year. It will be worth it.
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by AidanDenniston »

I think that is going to ultimately be what I do. Thank you very much for the reply!!
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by frankster »

I've summited Mount Sneffels twice and turned back thrice (due to "unexpectedly" heavy snow remaining at the top of Lav Col in July!) over the past 20 years.
I've not taken the SW ridge yet. At 61 yrs old, the SW ridge might not be in my future. About 20 years ago, the Lavender Col route was considered
a "difficult" Class II hike (in GR's book, at least)--due to the V-notch move, I assume. The exposure on that short section leading to the V was interesting back then, but not overly concerning, and it felt like a solid class II hike.

My last summit of Sneffels was about 2 years ago, and that exposed section leading to the V notch seemed much more concerning. The narrow, short, slippery section leading to the V notch is quite off-camber, leaning one down into the 1000+ foot drop. My wife and I traversed it (it was her 4th try of Sneffels and she would not be denied) and
scrambled through the notch without much difficulty. There were probably 40 other climbers that August day, and most seemed similarly freaked out by that narrow, off-camber path.

Maybe it is age--maybe not--but for me the crux section has gotten a bit more sporty over the decades due to that short off-camber section. Once safely in the rock V, it all seemed happy. It has been a very wet Summer (and early Fall) in Telluride and the San Juans, so ice can be a concern. I would want to do that short, exposed section under optimal conditions
Otherwise, the view N/S/E/W on the top of Sneffels are sublime.

I've done Handies/Redcloud/Sunshine in Summer and Fall and they are wonderful hikes with outstanding vistas.
There is a nice, recent trip report outlining the conditions on County Road 30 leading from Lake CIty (to Redcloud and Sunshine, etc)
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mtree
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by mtree »

Given your height, you shouldn't have an issue with the V notch. It is a wonky move with a death fall to one side. I wouldn't do it in icy conditions unless I had a rope. Just need something to grab onto. With 2 people, one could be a spotter.
- I didn't say it was your fault. I said I was blaming you.
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by Istoodupthere »

AidanDenniston wrote: Sun Oct 02, 2022 7:30 pm Hello everybody! I am doing my first official class 3 14er. I have done a handful of the easier ones as well as plenty of bouldering, rock climbing and some experience with technical scrambling just not as much with exposure.
Me and my buddy are planning on heading down to the San Juans this upcoming weekend of the 7th. Our main goal is Sneffels and possibly some of the easier peaks in the area if weather is permitting.
I have spent a decent amount of time studying the SW ridge route of Sneffels but as we get closer I am wondering if we should switch to the more beaten path through lavender couloir, given the recent snowfall which I am assuming may continue throughout the week leading into our summit attempt.
I am just wondering how bad the exposure really is? If the sw ridge is still a good option with a crust of snow or ice? (I have done a decent bit of studying Topo maps of the route as well as trip repots for the sw ridge but still am worried about the route finding a bit) And just any further advice with trying to get this beautiful summit.
thank you guys
I’m 5’6” and have done plenty of class 3’s around the country and some class 4 stuff. For some reason one of my most uncomfortable experiences was at the V notch on Sneffels. Awkward moves with a ton of exposure on one side. As an example, I did Wilson Peak a couple months ago and thought it was pretty easy.
Istoodupthere
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Re: Seeking Advice Mt. Sneffels

Post by Istoodupthere »

AidanDenniston wrote: Sun Oct 02, 2022 8:28 pm I do have micro spikes. The v notch I am not too worried about given a little bit of background bouldering and sport climbing, as well as I am 6’3. If I am being naive by my comfort let me know.
Just saw you were 6’3”. From what I hear, you’ll be fine on V notch if dry. Seems to be a short person thing
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