Crestone Peak North Buttress route question

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
Forum rules
  • This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
  • Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
  • Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
  • Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
    For more details, please see the Terms of Use you agreed to when joining the forum.
Post Reply
User avatar
polar
Posts: 1256
Joined: 8/12/2013
14ers: 2 
Trip Reports (1)
 

Crestone Peak North Buttress route question

Post by polar »

I usually don't ask questions about a particular route (ie. never), because there's usually enough TRs and forum threads out there to help figure everything out. However, I'm pretty confused by a single photo (below) that appeared in two different TRs written by people who climbed the route together.

Image

Quoting rohit's TR:
I borrowed following picture from maverick_manley. According to him, we should be on the blue line, but we're on the red line. If you're going now, just make sure to stay at the blue line as much as possible.

The actual route should be in blue, but we're ended up on RED.... the so called NORTH PILLAR
But quoting maverick_manley's TR:
Joe marked out the routes on many of the pictures that follow (Thanks, man). The blue line marks the route we took and red marks the NW Buttress route that looks more fun, in retrospect.
So rohit said he got his picture and beta from maverick_manley, that would indicate that maverick_manley's beta is the correct one (red line is the NW buttress route), but based on some of the other TRs I've read, I feel like rohit is correct (blue line is the NW buttress route). Soooo... a little help from people who has done it?
"Getting to the bottom, OPTIONAL. Getting to the top, MANDATORY!" - The Wisest Trail Sign
User avatar
Broken Knee
Posts: 470
Joined: 8/5/2014
13ers: 28
Trip Reports (1)
 

Re: Crestone Peak North Buttress route question

Post by Broken Knee »

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/1 ... h-buttress

I nicked this picture from Mountain Project. It looks like I remember the route to be, although I think our path at the bottom curved to the left as you view it in the pic.

Image
Attachments
106874292_large_1494147531.jpg
106874292_large_1494147531.jpg (135.84 KiB) Viewed 2807 times
When life gets you down, climb!
User avatar
Boggy B
Posts: 789
Joined: 10/14/2009
14ers: 58  7 
13ers: 777 76
Trip Reports (40)
 

Re: Crestone Peak North Buttress route question

Post by Boggy B »

The topo on MP didn't look right to me. We stayed basically on the ridge according to my GPS tracks.
n_butt.jpg
n_butt.jpg (93.63 KiB) Viewed 2684 times
Orange = 2010, Red = 2013
User avatar
Conor
Posts: 1112
Joined: 9/2/2014
14ers: 41  6  6 
13ers: 51 1 1
Trip Reports (7)
 

Re: Crestone Peak North Buttress route question

Post by Conor »

somewhere between the cyan line from broken knee and the red line polar posted. It's pretty intuitive and basically rock hopping until the very top where everything sort of comes together.
User avatar
polar
Posts: 1256
Joined: 8/12/2013
14ers: 2 
Trip Reports (1)
 

Re: Crestone Peak North Buttress route question

Post by polar »

Boggy B wrote: Mon Sep 02, 2019 3:53 pm The topo on MP didn't look right to me. We stayed basically on the ridge according to my GPS tracks.

I agree, the photo on MP seems off. But it’s not the first time I found the beta on MP to be incorrect. In case anyone in the future look at this thread and wonder what came out of it, I drew the route we took on north buttress.
InkedIMG_20190914_164136814_HDR_LI.jpg
InkedIMG_20190914_164136814_HDR_LI.jpg (142.43 KiB) Viewed 2537 times
"Getting to the bottom, OPTIONAL. Getting to the top, MANDATORY!" - The Wisest Trail Sign
User avatar
Marmot72
Posts: 380
Joined: 9/2/2007
14ers: 58  2 
13ers: 570 16
Trip Reports (37)
 

Re: Crestone Peak North Buttress route question

Post by Marmot72 »

This route has puzzled me at intervals ever since I did it in 2007 and then joined this site. When I attempted it, the next hardest thing I had tried was Wetterhorn, and my only references were Roach and Dawson. I am pretty sure I took the red line. The thing that baffles me is the supposed down climb from the false summit to the real one. I recall looking down a narrow red gully off the north side as clearly as if it happened last week, but all of the down climb pictures I've seen to reach this point seem way steeper and exposed than I recall.
I have phenomenal route-finding abilities. Specifically, I have an uncanny knack for selecting the path of most resistance.
Post Reply