First Time Over 20K'?

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timf
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

Post by timf »

mtnjim wrote:When would you be going?
Pretty much when summitpost tells me to so probably July in the case of anything in Bolivia or January in the case of anything in Argentina.
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

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kevin777r wrote:I really enjoyed my trip to Ampato in Peru (20,400). Pretty convenient travel wise and doesn't take too long. Hiked Colca Canyon (beautiful) and El Misti (19k) to prep. Something to look at for sure. My other experiences over 20k have been amazing, but would probably violate one of your conditions. Illimani in Bolivia was great and I did that trip in two weeks, but sounds more glaciated than what you're looking for potentially. Also, Kang Yatse in Kashmir wasn't too long of a trip, but Kashmir may be a bit more tumultuous than you're looking for. Let me know if you have any questions about any of those.
Ampato and El Misti might be good. What time of year did you go do those?
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

Post by timf »

kevin777r wrote:I really enjoyed my trip to Ampato in Peru (20,400). Pretty convenient travel wise and doesn't take too long. Hiked Colca Canyon (beautiful) and El Misti (19k) to prep. Something to look at for sure. My other experiences over 20k have been amazing, but would probably violate one of your conditions. Illimani in Bolivia was great and I did that trip in two weeks, but sounds more glaciated than what you're looking for potentially. Also, Kang Yatse in Kashmir wasn't too long of a trip, but Kashmir may be a bit more tumultuous than you're looking for. Let me know if you have any questions about any of those.
Ampato and El Misti might be good. What time of year did you go do those?
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

Post by kevin777r »

I guess I'm a month late on this reply, but if it is still helpful, I did those in December. I think that is outside of their normal season, although it was fine other than a bit more snow than usual on Ampato
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

Post by Shooter »

Let me know if you end up choosing Ecuador. It's on my short list. I'll most likely target Chimbo, Cotopaxi, and Cayambe. Andeanface seems like a good option and reasonably priced.
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

Post by Scott P »

Ampato and El Misti might be good. What time of year did you go do those?
In my opinion, mid April through May is the best time of year for those mountains, though El Misti can be climbed year round and Ampato is reasonable from April and into December.

May to September is the driest season on those mountains, but mid April to May offers advantages (late March to mid April can also be good, but expect some rain and snow). For one, the mountains are greener and more scenic than in the heart of the dry season.

Here is a photo from SP member Vic Hansen showing Hualca Hualca, just north of Ampato in dry conditions:

Image

Here's my photo of Hualca Hualca on April 1:

Image

Those mountains are definitely more scenic with some snow and greenery.

Having water around is also an advantage to having dry conditions. In the heart of the dry season, what water there is taste nasty because it seeps out of the volcanic soils. It's much better to have some fresh snow and water around.

April and May do have a greater risk (especially April) or bad weather, but the advantages outweigh the disadvantages in my opinion.

I have climbed several mountains in that region if you have any questions. Hualca Hualca is my favorite peak there, but it is just under 20,000 feet (19,767).

Here are a couple of trip reports if you are interested:

https://www.summitpost.org/adventures-i ... uel/894764

https://www.summitpost.org/father-and-s ... eru/378565
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

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I'm thinking 7/2019 not 2018 for Parinacota, but not too many people are interested in that one. Not sure why it's a beautiful looking peak.
Anyone want to join me? World's highest lake, LLicancabur or Acotango, then Parinacota, and then I'll do the cooking at a high camp on Sajama?
Might be hard to find a partner for this.
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

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timf wrote:I'm thinking 7/2019 not 2018 for Parinacota, but not too many people are interested in that one. Not sure why it's a beautiful looking peak.
Anyone want to join me? World's highest lake, LLicancabur or Acotango, then Parinacota, and then I'll do the cooking at a high camp on Sajama?
Might be hard to find a partner for this.
I've climbed Parinacota as an acclimatization for Sajama. The conditions were not good...very dry with lots of penitentes to deal with. It is a beautiful area and way off the grid. Bolivia is exotic in a Mad Max kind of way. The peak itself is not very interesting climbing without snow. If you do select it, go early in our summer (their winter) for better conditions.

As others have said I would look at Ecuador as a better option for your first 6000 meter summit.
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

Post by timf »

desertdog wrote:As others have said I would look at Ecuador as a better option for your first 6000 meter summit.
The issue I have with that is Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, and Cayambe are beyond my expertise. I might be in over my head.
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

Post by desertdog »

timf wrote:
desertdog wrote:As others have said I would look at Ecuador as a better option for your first 6000 meter summit.
The issue I have with that is Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, and Cayambe are beyond my expertise. I might be in over my head.
Sure I understand, the Ecuador mountains do have crevasses. Samja is comparable to Chimbo though. Any 6000 meter mountain is the real deal. If you would consider a guide for Chimbo I could put you with some friends in Ecuador that would not be bizarrely expensive. Also, another option might be Ojos del Saldo in Chile ( see my TR).

PM Me if I can be of any help.

Richard
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

Post by timf »

desertdog wrote:
timf wrote:Sure I understand, the Ecuador mountains do have crevasses. Samja is comparable to Chimbo though. Any 6000 meter mountain is the real deal. If you would consider a guide for Chimbo I could put you with some friends in Ecuador that would not be bizarrely expensive. Also, another option might be Ojos del Saldo in Chile ( see my TR).

PM Me if I can be of any help.

Richard
I think finding people to do Chimbo with would be easy enough both from here AND a reliable guide. Ojos might fall outside 2 weeks MAX. Is there a big difference between 20K and 22K? Hope I don't run into any crazy Russians. Ojos seems "off the grid too" with water being scarse, but a little more enticing. I have some time, but open to options.

I would love to go back and do Ixta & Orizaba, but spooked a little by the travel advisory (travel to a US city is likely more dangerous), but moreso the small almost non-existent number of reports from this last season. Ixta & Orizaba really do offer a low cost stepping stone.
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Re: First Time Over 20K'?

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The thing about Ojos is it does not have the approach that Aconcagua has. You can drive to 17 K. I think you could fit into 2 weeks. But yes it’s off the grid. For me there is a big difference between 20 K and 22 K but it varies by person.
The summit is a source of power. The long view gives one knowledge and time to prepare. The summit, by virtue of the dizzying exposure, leaves one vulnerable. A bit of confidence and a dash of humility is all we get for our work. Yet to share these moments with friends is to be human. C. Anker
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