Aborted Attempts and Successful Re-dos

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HikerGuy
Posts: 1406
Joined: 5/25/2006
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Re: Aborted Attempts and Successful Re-dos

Post by HikerGuy »

I think aborted attempts are excellent learning opportunities and should not be looked at as failures. I also like my spreadsheets and stats, so I keep track of everything. My no summit rate is 4% (11 aborts on 278 attempts).

Aborted, but subsequently completed:
1. Mount Evans via Sawtooth - did not have proper gear (traction).
2. Mount Lindsey via standard - did not have proper gear (ice axe).
3. Mount Audubon via standard - partner was tired.
4. North Apostle via standard - partner was tired.
5. Mount Meeker via South Ridge - started too late.
6. Wilson Peak via standard - weather rolled in early.
7. Quarter Peak via standard - did not have proper gear (ice axe).
8. Pacific Peak via West Ridge - weather rolled in early.
9. Dallas Peak via standard - no protection, did not feel comfortable on crux.

Aborted, still need to go back to complete:
10. Magdalene Mountain via Texas Creek - vehicle could not make it to trailhead.
11. Mount Emma via standard - too tired of loose crap after traverse from Gilpin.

Also turned around on Shasta (wind) and Rainer (snow) due to weather. Have not gone back and probably will not at this point.
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angry
Posts: 662
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Re: Aborted Attempts and Successful Re-dos

Post by angry »

Rainier, 6/8/19 - self guided. Original plan was Kautz carry over but a storm rolled in when I arrived in Seattle so switched to DC. Guided team ahead of me triggered two avalanches causing me to turn around. Sad face. I hadn't planned to go back until 2021 but a couple weeks ago I decided to apply for a permit on a whim and it was approved.
8/30/20 - self guided, success! Happy face.
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CORed
Posts: 186
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Re: Aborted Attempts and Successful Re-dos

Post by CORed »

Mount Evans from Guanella Pass:
First attempt: I had good weather, but I started a bit late. I made it onto the summit ridge, but ran out of time and turned back.
Second attempt: I went with a friend. We took the wrong gully and ended up summiting Mount Spaulding, then a thunderstorm moved in and we headed down.
Third time was the charm. I had good weather and an earlier start than first attempt, and I made it. I had the route to myself until I got close to the summit, then ran into lots of people who drove up.

Mount Powell: Started a bit late (notice a trend here?), I was off route, as I followed the ridge above Kneeknocker Pass when I should have dropped down west side. I think this route goes at class 3, but was definitely slower than standard route. The weather started to deteriorate. I ignored it because I was pretty close, until lightning struck the ridge below me, at which point I finally decided that the summit wasn't worth my life. The storm turned into an all afternoon monsoon soaker, so it ended up being a very wet descent.

I went with a friend the following summer (same friend I climbed Spaulding with). and had good weather and summited via standard route.
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