Has the crux couloir of Cathedral Peak melted out yet? Any report on current conditions on Cathedral Peak would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Del
Cathedral Conditions?
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- Steve Nicholls
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Re: Cathedral Conditions?
I was up there a couple of weeks ago. About 150 ft of snow left at the top. The gully looked loose and nasty. I bailed and decided to leave it for next spring.
- JChitwood
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Re: Cathedral Conditions?
Is that gully such a big deal? Roach called it "hard dirt" after melt off but almost everybody seems to prefer the snow. There are more than a few trip reports of harrowing descents on the steep snow. I was thinking about giving the dirt a shot.
"I'll make it." - Jimmy Chitwood
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Re: Cathedral Conditions?
Imo the problem isnt so much the nasty loose crap,but that its a vertical rock bowling alley.
I attempted it back in 2010 the first days of july...I ran into papillon n wooderson on the approach and we buddied up to climb it. We got to the base of the cooly to gear up and witnessed some nasty rockfall coming down,and it wood have had serious consequences if struck by them. After some discussion we decided it best to back off n save it for better conditions at another time. And we instead went down n around to "electric" peak n pass. I wouldnt even think of trying to get thru that junk after its melted out. Rockfall+loose ankle biters=suck..or worse imho. But hey,maybe you dont mind that crap and are more of a risk taker/gambler.
I attempted it back in 2010 the first days of july...I ran into papillon n wooderson on the approach and we buddied up to climb it. We got to the base of the cooly to gear up and witnessed some nasty rockfall coming down,and it wood have had serious consequences if struck by them. After some discussion we decided it best to back off n save it for better conditions at another time. And we instead went down n around to "electric" peak n pass. I wouldnt even think of trying to get thru that junk after its melted out. Rockfall+loose ankle biters=suck..or worse imho. But hey,maybe you dont mind that crap and are more of a risk taker/gambler.
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Re: Cathedral Conditions?
I think I climbed it the day after that. You can read my TR here:blakhawk wrote:Imo the problem isnt so much the nasty loose crap,but that its a vertical rock bowling alley.
I attempted it back in 2010 the first days of july...I ran into papillon n wooderson on the approach and we buddied up to climb it.
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=8308
We had a similar discussion and went for it anyway. We got down safely but that's about the best I can say. It was scary. I wouldn't do it again without good snow conditions. If it's partially or totally melted out I'd go somewhere else.
Re: Cathedral Conditions?
I side with any vote that makes Cathedral a snow climb, in May or June, when the conditions are ripe. It is far for enjoyable and safer.
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-Grover
Re: Cathedral Conditions?
Man, that was a long time ago. Blakhawk, if I remember correctly you were out here from Pennsylvania? I think I offered to give you my helmet and sleep in the talus if you wanted to go for it.Jon Frohlich wrote:I think I climbed it the day after that. You can read my TR here:blakhawk wrote:Imo the problem isnt so much the nasty loose crap,but that its a vertical rock bowling alley.
I attempted it back in 2010 the first days of july...I ran into papillon n wooderson on the approach and we buddied up to climb it.
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=8308
We had a similar discussion and went for it anyway. We got down safely but that's about the best I can say. It was scary. I wouldn't do it again without good snow conditions. If it's partially or totally melted out I'd go somewhere else.
I remember the bottom 30-40% was melted out and we were late as it was and stuff was just popping off the sides and coming down. I couldn't figure out where to safely put on my spikes so we called it.
The gully, when fat, has a good run out so if you were to take a ride you'd be OK. I faced in a good ways on the descent. I think anybody considering this should get some snow practice in and take a shot at it, maybe go with some more experienced people. Route from the top of the gully to the summit is pretty pedestrian.
The look in his eyes when it hit - Kid, it was tasty... - William Seward Burroughs