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Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 11:45 am
by evan85
Hi all,
Looking to take a trip this year to the Cordillera Blanca region and I am searching for a/some experienced partner(s). Depending on our combined experience and route choices, I would be open to guided or unguided. I have multiple "wish list" peaks to bag in that range and I would be open to your suggestions as well. I have climbed unguided in the Blanca region before on easier peaks under 18K. PM me if you have mountaineering experience and are interested in some bagging some Peruvian Andes!

Evan

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 11:57 am
by desertdog
Hi Evan,

I am heading down to SA in June. I looked at Peru, but my contacts down there said it was pretty touch and go. Right now there is a 14day quarantine in place. Things are changing every week. They felt Peru may not be the best option. You may already know this and of course it could be much better by summer. We opted for Bolivia instead because we felt like it was a bit more open than Peru. For example right now there is no quarantine. Ecuador is another option but the climbing is not as great and it is not the best season. Just trying to provide you some info to help. Hope it works for you whatever you decide.

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:29 pm
by Scott P
desertdog wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 11:57 amEcuador is another option but the climbing is not as great and it is not the best season.
June and July are the best months for many of Ecuador's mountains, but not all of them.

Bolivia is good then too.

Personally, I'm waiting to travel until COVID calms down, but maybe in a few months things will be better?

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:34 pm
by d_baker
Scott P wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:29 pm maybe in a few months thongs will be better?
What's wrong with thongs now??

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:39 pm
by rijaca
d_baker wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:34 pm
Scott P wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:29 pm maybe in a few months thongs will be better?
What's wrong with thongs now??
It should be warmer in a couple months.

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 7:15 pm
by desertdog
Scott P wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:29 pm
desertdog wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 11:57 amEcuador is another option but the climbing is not as great and it is not the best season.
June and July are the best months for many of Ecuador's mountains, but not all of them.

I’ve been to Ecuador many times. Bolivia as well. I would say end of November to through January are much better than the summer months in Ecuador, but it’s weather and it is on the equator, so you never know. My local friends down there feel the same. I would agree summer offers better weather in Bolivia.

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 7:20 pm
by desertdog
d_baker wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:34 pm
Scott P wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:29 pm maybe in a few months thongs will be

What's wrong with thongs now??
+1 for thongs! I’m in for thongs any month of the year. :-D :-D :-D

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 9:52 pm
by Scott P
desertdog wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 7:15 pmI’ve been to Ecuador many times.I would say end of November to through January are much better than the summer months in Ecuador, but it’s weather and it is on the equator, so you never know.
It depends on which mountains. Ecuador is unique in that the Eastern Cordillera and Western Cordillera have opposite wet dry seasons. Basically for the Western Cordillera (Cordillera Occidental), June and July are the driest months, while for the Eastern Cordillera December and January are the best months, with the exception of Antisana and El Altar which tend to have the best conditions in February.

Peaks with December-January or February as being the best season:

Cayambe
Reventador
Sara Urco
Antisana
Sumaco
Tungarahua
El Altar
Sangay

Peaks with two drier seasons in December-January and June-July:

Cotopaxi
Rumiñahui
Chimborazo (though June-July tends to be a little better than December January. Both are reasonable though.)
Carhuairazo (same as Chimborazo)

Peaks where June and July (and sometimes August, but it tends to be windy) are the best weather months:

Chiles
Cotacachi
Pichincha
Corazon
Iliniza Norte
Iliniza Sur

Basically if you are there in June and July avoid the east and climb in the west. If you are there in December-January or February, focus on the east plus Chimborazo. The Ilinizas can be wet in December-January, but on the other hand sometimes fresh snow and ice is an advantage on Sur.

To sum it up, the best months to be in Ecuador to maximize climing would be December-January, but the best times for some mountains in Ecuador are June and July. March to May is generally the worst time no matter where you go, though sometimes you might get lucky.

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2021 6:22 am
by desertdog
Scott P wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 9:52 pm
desertdog wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 7:15 pmI’ve been to Ecuador many times.I would say end of November to through January are much better than the summer months in Ecuador, but it’s weather and it is on the equator, so you never know.
It depends on which mountains. Ecuador is unique in that the Eastern Cordillera and Western Cordillera have opposite wet dry seasons. Basically for the Western Cordillera (Cordillera Occidental), June and July are the driest months, while for the Eastern Cordillera December and January are the best months, with the exception of Antisana and El Altar which tend to have the best conditions in February.

I only been to Ecuador seven times to climb with my friends that live there, so I’m going to stick with my on the ground experience and their feedback. I was trying to help the Evan with his trip to SA based on my many trips down that way and my recent research. I didn’t really want to get in a debate on Ecuador’s weather, but you may be right a some of the mountains, who cares. You’re the boss. :-D :-D :-D

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2021 10:09 am
by evan85
desertdog wrote: Tue Mar 16, 2021 11:57 am Hi Evan,

I am heading down to SA in June. I looked at Peru, but my contacts down there said it was pretty touch and go. Right now there is a 14day quarantine in place. Things are changing every week. They felt Peru may not be the best option. You may already know this and of course it could be much better by summer. We opted for Bolivia instead because we felt like it was a bit more open than Peru. For example right now there is no quarantine. Ecuador is another option but the climbing is not as great and it is not the best season. Just trying to provide you some info to help. Hope it works for you whatever you decide.
Thanks for the info! Yeah I'm hoping for the summer to be relatively clear to travel but who knows.

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2021 11:00 am
by Scott P
desertdog wrote: Wed Mar 17, 2021 6:22 amI was trying to help the Evan with his trip to SA based on my many trips down that way and my recent research.
Me too. I wasn't trying to debate, but trying to provide some alternative June-July options other than Peru.

Anyway, have a good time in Bolivia. It's beautiful.

Getting ready for my 11th trip to SA, but still have a lot of places left on my wish list. Hopefully this COVID thing is mostly done by then.

Have a great trip though (both of you).

Re: Peru Partner(s)

Posted: Thu May 13, 2021 10:42 pm
by Scott P
FYI Peru is now open to US travelers provided you gave a negative COVID test less than 72 hours before arrival.