Capitol's Death Route

[Scott P]

I wanted this in a new thread since I didn't want it to get lost among a bunch of bickering posts. This one is meant to be useful.

This photo recently taken by Anastasia Chuykina and used with permission. This is the top of the "death gully" leading off standard route. Anastasia sent me the high resolution photo (PM me if anyone wants to see the high resolution photo), but I couldn't upload it, so here is a lower resolution photo:



You can see that a trail or sorts is starting to form in the gully (maybe mountain goats contribute to this too?).

Especially in the high resolution photo you can pick out the sets of footprints going down the gully. It actually does look like a route down to the lake, but it cliffs out farther down. This was the scene of the recent accidents on Capitol Peak.

Here my photo (September) showing the top of the gully in relationship to the face:



Higher resolution:

http://images.summitpost.org/original/1006700.JPG

Here is Mark Thomas' photo taken on our May climb several years ago. It isn't high resolution, but the snow makes the cliff bands stand out more:



The gully is negotiable with bypasses almost down to the snow/icefield at the base of the north face of Capitol. Unfortunately, a cliff blocks further access and it is impossible to reach the lake without technical gear. Also unfortunate, you have to climb all the way back up to the summit ridge in order to escape the gully and this would take several hours.

Anyway, I hope this information is useful and I will try to update the Summitpost page to make sure that people are aware that the gully is not a viable route.

Have fun and please be safe out there.

[B_2]

Gives me chills looking at that. It looks so inviting...

Definitely a helpful set of photos and info that needs to be shared.
Thanks for this and I hope it helps to spread the word.

[SoCool]

Good post Scott! This is the type of info I would like to see posted at the trailhead.

[rpdawes]

Many thanks! I found it useful and educational. It is my hope that many people who plan on climbing to the summit in the future will get a chance to view your comments so they can make a right decision.

Why don't you ask the web administrator to include the photos and your comments on the Capitol Peak page?

[tdp1]

That's worse than I imagined. If that social trail continues to develop, people are going to keep walking off of it.

[Scott P]

Many thanks! I found it useful and educational. It is my hope that many people who plan on climbing to the summit in the future will get a chance to view your comments so they can make a right decision.

Why don't you ask the web administrator to include the photos and your comments on the Capitol Peak page?

I put the information and photos on the Summitpost page, but maybe Bill can add it to the 14ers.com page.

[Somewhat of a Prick]

Many thanks! I found it useful and educational. It is my hope that many people who plan on climbing to the summit in the future will get a chance to view your comments so they can make a right decision.

Why don't you ask the web administrator to include the photos and your comments on the Capitol Peak page?

I put the information and photos on the Summitpost page, but maybe Bill can add it to the 14ers.com page.

A part of the problem is people going down this route never visit this site or summitpost to start with, in my opinion.

[TomPierce]

I don't like to dive into bickering post threads such as those on this summer's accidents, but I agree these photos are very useful. I saw the very first picture and muttered "sh*t, I can see a trail forming...," and only then read your caption about a social trail forming. What makes it even more tempting is the way it V-slots the lake below, very tantalizing. I generally oppose signage on peaks, but with that? I dunno...maybe. There's a sign at the False Keyhole on Longs (or there used to be, anyway...) for similar reasons.

Just my .02.

-Tom

[LURE]

Many thanks! I found it useful and educational. It is my hope that many people who plan on climbing to the summit in the future will get a chance to view your comments so they can make a right decision.

Why don't you ask the web administrator to include the photos and your comments on the Capitol Peak page?

I put the information and photos on the Summitpost page, but maybe Bill can add it to the 14ers.com page.

A part of the problem is people going down this route never visit this site or summitpost to start with, in my opinion.

A lot do and a lot don't. But since a lot still do it'd be for the better to have information like this in front of more eyes. Even something as simple as a modification of the route description on here to include a step talking about avoiding this on descent.

[pmeadco]

I hate the thought of this thread descending into another bicker-fest regarding signs vs no signs (the old Crestone Needle threads), but maybe this is a location that justifies a scare inducing warning sign. Considering the number of lives lost, it may justify desecrating the mountains a bit to prevent people from taking that route.

[Sean Nunn]

It is too bad we can't, as a climbing community, come up with some type of "anti-cairn" that uses natural materials but is a clear way of letting people know: "don't go this way unless you have technical gear or your name is Alex Honnold."

[rpdawes]

Many thanks! I found it useful and educational. It is my hope that many people who plan on climbing to the summit in the future will get a chance to view your comments so they can make a right decision.

Why don't you ask the web administrator to include the photos and your comments on the Capitol Peak page?

I put the information and photos on the Summitpost page, but maybe Bill can add it to the 14ers.com page.

A part of the problem is people going down this route never visit this site or summitpost to start with, in my opinion.

I agree. What I suggested will certainly save some lives, but not all. If we can save one life, it will be worth the effort.