Missing Climbers : Capitol Peak 8/20

[keikurausu]

They summited soon after we did and were very friendly, even shared some fireball they had brought up with them.

"Shared some fireball?" As in Fireball Whiskey, is that what you meant?

Yes, however they only brought up a little and seemed very in control during the half hour we were together. Definitely don't think alcohol was a factor, more likely that they tried going down a chute from the top as it didn't look impossible to climb down from there, while from the bottom it's a lot more clear how steep it is.

[Buckshot Jake]

This latest Aspen Times article really hits home and illustrates the dangers of what we are doing out there. One wrong turn can mean life or death. Stay alert out there, study your routes meticulously and have back up plans to account for weather fatigue, etc. Being prepared is key.

RIP

[SoCool]

The articles are not able to explain the exact cause of the accident, so let us all PLEASE refrain from anymore speculation. Nothing is "learned" from random guesses.

Eight fatalities in the past fourteen years teaches us to respect this mountain. It is a serious undertaking.

[juj333]

This is a tragedy that has struck home with me. I knew Ryan. We met last summer at CMC. He was new to the area and we had become friends. Ryan was not an experienced climber. We shared similar hobbies of what included the love of outdoors and I had spoken with him about 14ers and the joy of hiking them. He specifically asked me, which ones he should consider hiking first. I told him first and foremost--"not any of the Elks, they're too hard, start with something easier like Bierstadt or Quandary" Ryan was NOT an experienced climber, he was an alpine marathoner, exceptional in many sports. But he was not experienced in Peaks. I'm not aware of or if Ryan had hiked any other peaks before attempting Capitol, we followed one another on Strava and he hadn't posted any peaks, however he had posted other hikes. Thus, I'm heartsick at the idea that this was his first. Please be safe out there! Please respect the mountains and the dangers they hold. It is NEVER a casual matter to hike a 14,000 foot mountain! My heart mourns the loss of a friend and of two young people that had incredible potential. I am truly sad for this horrendous tragedy. Ryan was a great guy and no doubt Carlin must have been great too. I pray for peace and comfort to be with their family and friends, including Ryan's dog Dune. <3

[Scott P]

The articles are not able to explain the exact cause of the accident, so let us all PLEASE refrain from anymore speculation. Nothing is "learned" from random guesses.

Eight fatalities in the past fourteen years teaches us to respect this mountain. It is a serious undertaking.

Given the sighting, sounds, and location of the body, the news story synopsis seem both plausible and probable, even if not certain. It seems more than a random guess.

[SoCool]

It seems more than a random guess.

Scott, I didn't mean to imply there was speculation in the news articles. I was referring to the speculation in this thread that "maybe they tried to descend an alternate route." This forum has a habit of speculating.

[Scott P]

It seems more than a random guess.

Scott, I didn't mean to imply there was speculation in the news articles. I was referring to the speculation in this thread that "maybe they tried to descend an alternate route." This forum has a habit of speculating.

From the article:

"I think they possibly sought an alternate route that skirts around the Knife Edge on the north side (of the ridge)," Steindler said. "That makes the most sense."

Given the location that the bodies were found, they were off route. It is extremely unlikely that they could have gotten there by simply falling off the knife edge or ridge crest. Most likely, they either tried to find a way around the Knife Edge or tried to descend a completely different route down to Capitol Lake. Although this is not certain, it is the logical explanation.

[keikurausu]

It seems more than a random guess.

Scott, I didn't mean to imply there was speculation in the news articles. I was referring to the speculation in this thread that "maybe they tried to descend an alternate route." This forum has a habit of speculating.

From the article:

"I think they possibly sought an alternate route that skirts around the Knife Edge on the north side (of the ridge)," Steindler said. "That makes the most sense."

Given the location that the bodies were found, they were off route. It is extremely unlikely that they could have gotten there by simply falling off the knife edge or ridge crest. Most likely, they either tried to find a way around the Knife Edge or tried to descend a completely different route down to Capitol Lake. Although this is not certain, it is the logical explanation.

Agreed, given the fact that the screams were heard 6 hours after they likely left the summit, seems logical that they were stuck off route for quite a while and probably ended up taking bigger risks as it got closer to dark. Definitely best to stay put and call for help in situations like that.

[SoCool]

It's time to quote the late Steve Gladbach (forgive me, forum members, for abbreviating his post a little, it was just so long):

"I have seen about 5% (That 5% often does more harm than the 95% does good) of every accident thread deteriorate into a useless guessing game designed to 'analyze' the accident... The 'lessons' learned never serve to prevent future incidents, because the armchair critics assimilate the info by convincing themselves that , 'Since I take precaution "X", that will not happen to me.' BS.

In every thread, the critics boil the details down to some trite conclusion which can be filed under a particular chapter of stuff 'not to do.'

Upside:

1. Training highlights preventable mistakes : PLEASE take a series at CMC or private courses designed to build skills. Repeat classes periodically as long as you are a climber.

2. Mentorship and group participation can teach skills.

3. GOOD books, i.e. Freedom of the Hills, written to teach actual skills, can help.

4. Time in the field teaches valuable, applicable (but not perfect) lessons.

Downside:

1. Climbing is dangerous and each climber must decide for themselves the level of risk they wish to assume.

2. Rocks move, feet slip, snow slides.

3.The exact conditions leading to an accident are never analyzed 100% correctly, so the conclusions are always skewed.

4. Time in the field increases that opportunity for #1 and #2 to catch up with you!


You know that you can make zero mistakes and still die.

ONWARDS! - Steve"

[Phill the Thrill]

This is a tragedy that has struck home with me. I knew Ryan. We met last summer at CMC. He was new to the area and we had become friends. Ryan was not an experienced climber. We shared similar hobbies of what included the love of outdoors and I had spoken with him about 14ers and the joy of hiking them. He specifically asked me, which ones he should consider hiking first. I told him first and foremost--"not any of the Elks, they're too hard, start with something easier like Bierstadt or Quandary" Ryan was NOT an experienced climber, he was an alpine marathoner, exceptional in many sports. But he was not experienced in Peaks. I'm not aware of or if Ryan had hiked any other peaks before attempting Capitol, we followed one another on Strava and he hadn't posted any peaks, however he had posted other hikes. Thus, I'm heartsick at the idea that this was his first. Please be safe out there! Please respect the mountains and the dangers they hold. It is NEVER a casual matter to hike a 14,000 foot mountain! My heart mourns the loss of a friend and of two young people that had incredible potential. I am truly sad for this horrendous tragedy. Ryan was a great guy and no doubt Carlin must have been great too. I pray for peace and comfort to be with their family and friends, including Ryan's dog Dune. <3

Thank you for sharing this, juj333. I'm so sorry for your loss. It is, as you said, a horrendous tragedy, and we lost two wonderful people.

[Phill the Thrill]

This article from yesterday gives more insights on what might have happened to them. RIP Carlin and Ryan.

http://www.aspentimes.com/news/memorial ... or-friday/

This article really shook me up. What a horrific tragedy.

From the Aspen Times article and comments by witnesses, it appears that the climbers were somewhat inexperienced, and made an uninformed decision on what route to take on the descent. That says nothing to minimize the fact that they seem to have been two beautiful and talented young people who were already on their way to making a big impact on their community and the world. I pray for their friends and family who are mourning their loss. My heart aches for everyone impacted.

[benlen]

This article from yesterday gives more insights on what might have happened to them. RIP Carlin and Ryan.

http://www.aspentimes.com/news/memorial ... or-friday/

This article really shook me up. What a horrific tragedy.

From the Aspen Times article and comments by witnesses, it appears that the climbers were somewhat inexperienced, and made an uninformed decision on what route to take on the descent. That says nothing to minimize the fact that they seem to have been two beautiful and talented young people who were already on their way to making a big impact on their community and the world. I pray for their friends and family who are mourning their loss. My heart aches for everyone impacted.

That's my sentiment as well. Inexperienced folks who made some bad calls on an unforgiving mountain. Just tragic, and incredibly disturbing to read the article.