hellmanm wrote: ↑Thu Jun 24, 2021 8:45 am
I'm curious whether y'all think it's worth it. I've done my fair share of scrambling, but I don't currently have the technical rope skill (or gear) required to safely go up*. Ideally, this would be a way to go beyond my normal comfort zone without having to spend years learning all the intricacies of technical climbing. I also figure that the $$ required to get+learn to properly use a trad rack will probably rival the cost of a guide anyway.
If this does sound like a good idea, anyone have any guiding outfits that they recommend? I was looking at San Juan mtn guides but am open to any suggestions. Partners are welcome too if anyone wants in -- ideally, we'd get a few climbs in beforehand though (I'm planning to do the guided trip on Labor Day weekend). I'd want to hire a guide for the technical portion, then stay up there for an extra day or two for some (non-guided) scrambling -- Arrow/Trinities if in Vestal Basin, Knife Pt/Leviathan/Vallecito/maybe others if in Noname Basin.
*I know that Vestal can be done at class 3, but I'm primarily interested in ascending via Wham Ridge.
Tom's response below is a good one:
TomPierce wrote: ↑Thu Jun 24, 2021 11:56 am
I think I'm an OK scrambler and I took a rope for the rappels on Jagged, which I climbed alone fwiw. Could I have downclimbed it without a rope? Absolutely. But it's a style issue to me, not an issue of ability. I think that if you want to climb a long time and die peacefully in your sleep, you learn to pluck the low hanging climbing safety fruit, i.e. reasonably reduce your risk of injury when it's easy to do so. I was alone, miles from nowhere, and even a short fall could've resulted in a sprain or break. What then? Or if the weather fell apart? Downclimbing wet rock? I've done it many times but would prefer to descend on a rope over wet 4th/5th class terrain, esp in a storm.
Live to climb another day. Everyone is immortal in the mountains, until they're not. Just my opinions.
-Tom
PS: OP, if you don't feel solid for the climb and you don't have competent partners who could lead and/or rig a rappel, get a guide. Jagged isn't really all that hard as 5th class peaks go, but people have run into problems on it. Have a great climb!
I was asking myself the same question about Rainier before I climbed it. Around where I live, few friends would ever consider doing that with me much less have any relevant experience to act as an asset on a team and at the time I didn't know a lot of mountain-capable friends but I was set on doing it but also wary of climbing with partners I didn't know well. Could I summit it solo and return safely? Was I fit enough? Yes I am sure I could have provided no crevasses opened up as I walked over them, no seracs fell on me, or stepped across any hidden avy triggers and there was no whiteout, unforeseen weather, etc. But, why take so many risks. I joined a guided group, guides who knew of recent conditions, had radio contact in case things went south, had the technical savoir-faire and taught me a thing or two and I had a great, much safer time than had I done it solo and lucked out getting back down in one piece. Had I known a few folks with that sort of skill to climb with back then, maybe I'd just have gone with them (which would still be guided, just not a "paid" guide).
So consider the source when seeking advice, when someone says no rope is needed, what they are usually saying is 'they' don't use a rope, whether that's wise or not depends on the circumstance, route, person, etc. but that's not to say others won't benefit from using a rope or that one really should use a rope. Maybe the person suggesting that is a rock ninja and climbs 5.10 routes every day. Ego has a lot to do with folks responding to questions about ropes and guides, fyi. If you consider yourself a newbee when it comes to technical rock climbing, by all means seek experienced assistance in the form of a qualified guide and learn the ropes, so to speak. You could in the meantime before your climb gain some experience on increasingly exposed Class 3 routes, building your tolerance for exposure and make sure your fitness is rock solid all of which will contribute to a better experience on the mountain even with a Guide.
You might find some folks on this site with great experience and technical skills that could be your partner and act as your guide, formally or if informally (i.e. unpaid). If you do find someone to climb with here, I'd suggest you get to know each other, do some easier hikes together and understand each others risk tolerance and establish a leader/follower relationship early so each knows what they are getting into and what to expect.
Good luck!