Do be very careful. Even if you are a Capitals fanCaptainSuburbia wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 5:28 pmGo Caps! Yes, I'll be heading up the west ridge very soon. Just waiting for a little more snow to melt...greenonion wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 5:19 pmGo Pens! Ahem… do you still plan on going back to LB west ridge direct to up AND down climb that ridge to see if doable-ish??CaptainSuburbia wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 7:18 pm
Haha maybe too much rugby and hockey in my youth. I've only done the hourglass with snow. SW ridge and West ridge are better routes when the hourglass is dry.
Crestone Needle/Peak
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
- CaptainSuburbia
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
I will for sure! I can't believe Jagr is still playing.greenonion wrote: ↑Tue May 25, 2021 1:17 pmDo be very careful. Even if you are a Capitals fanCaptainSuburbia wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 5:28 pmGo Caps! Yes, I'll be heading up the west ridge very soon. Just waiting for a little more snow to melt...greenonion wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 5:19 pm
Go Pens! Ahem… do you still plan on going back to LB west ridge direct to up AND down climb that ridge to see if doable-ish??
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- Bigfoot
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
Maybe its too early still, but I was planning on trying out your West Ridge Variation route as detailed in https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=20799 on Sunday. If successful, I plan on returning that same route as I have no desire to attempt the traverse. And if I can't figure it out, the hourglass is plan B. If you have any further details, I'd appreciate them.CaptainSuburbia wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 5:28 pmGo Caps! Yes, I'll be heading up the west ridge very soon. Just waiting for a little more snow to melt...greenonion wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 5:19 pmGo Pens! Ahem… do you still plan on going back to LB west ridge direct to up AND down climb that ridge to see if doable-ish??CaptainSuburbia wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 7:18 pm
Haha maybe too much rugby and hockey in my youth. I've only done the hourglass with snow. SW ridge and West ridge are better routes when the hourglass is dry.
- randalmartin
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
Hourglass route should be avoided in June in my opinion. Hourglass is good under two conditions, 1] full snow climb (preferred) which is generally between mid April to early May, 2] completely dry (July - September). The hourglass is terrible in late May and the month of June. The icing that occurs in the hourglass makes it an absolute no go for about 6 weeks (including the month of June). I climbed it back on April 25th and it was just about ideal as a snow climb though I can tell you even back then ice was already forming under the snow in parts of the hourglass and based on latest conditions people are reporting it is fully iced.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
Agreed. That’s why I was planning crestones earlier in season and LB later on. Thanks for the advice.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
Mspin99,
I am in the same boat. I was eyeing up the July 4th weekend as long as this heat wave continues so that everything is mostly dry (and weather is good the weekend of). I was not planning on doing the traverse but would like to get both in one day. If you want to team up, let me know.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
The southwest ridge is a viable option. The biggest pro to the southwest ridge is that it's much safer than the Hourglass. By this time of year there might be some lingering snow to deal with on the scrambly bits between Mama Bear ("South Little Bear") and the summit but that's better than trying to climb a verglas covered slab like the Hourglass. Probably the biggest drawback is that it must be done in a single push, there's no water or reasonable camp sites on the entire route. Still, having done both, I say the southwest ridge is the superior route.randalmartin wrote: ↑Mon May 31, 2021 7:49 am Hourglass route should be avoided in June in my opinion. Hourglass is good under two conditions, 1] full snow climb (preferred) which is generally between mid April to early May, 2] completely dry (July - September). The hourglass is terrible in late May and the month of June. The icing that occurs in the hourglass makes it an absolute no go for about 6 weeks (including the month of June). I climbed it back on April 25th and it was just about ideal as a snow climb though I can tell you even back then ice was already forming under the snow in parts of the hourglass and based on latest conditions people are reporting it is fully iced.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
I might be available for LB attempt in mid>late july. Let me know what date you are thinking Ladnerkm.
- CaptainSuburbia
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
+1supranihilest wrote: ↑Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:17 pmThe southwest ridge is a viable option. The biggest pro to the southwest ridge is that it's much safer than the Hourglass. By this time of year there might be some lingering snow to deal with on the scrambly bits between Mama Bear ("South Little Bear") and the summit but that's better than trying to climb a verglas covered slab like the Hourglass. Probably the biggest drawback is that it must be done in a single push, there's no water or reasonable camp sites on the entire route. Still, having done both, I say the southwest ridge is the superior route.randalmartin wrote: ↑Mon May 31, 2021 7:49 am Hourglass route should be avoided in June in my opinion. Hourglass is good under two conditions, 1] full snow climb (preferred) which is generally between mid April to early May, 2] completely dry (July - September). The hourglass is terrible in late May and the month of June. The icing that occurs in the hourglass makes it an absolute no go for about 6 weeks (including the month of June). I climbed it back on April 25th and it was just about ideal as a snow climb though I can tell you even back then ice was already forming under the snow in parts of the hourglass and based on latest conditions people are reporting it is fully iced.
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- mspin99
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
Msbaker,Msbaker wrote: ↑Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:09 pmMspin99,
I am in the same boat. I was eyeing up the July 4th weekend as long as this heat wave continues so that everything is mostly dry (and weather is good the weekend of). I was not planning on doing the traverse but would like to get both in one day. If you want to team up, let me know.
I was originally planning on camping at Colony Lake the night before. Can potentially swing 7/2-7/3, but 7/16-7/18 timeframe may be more realistic for me.
Let me know,
Mark
Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
*only* +1?!?!CaptainSuburbia wrote: ↑Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:39 pm+1supranihilest wrote: ↑Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:17 pmThe southwest ridge is a viable option. The biggest pro to the southwest ridge is that it's much safer than the Hourglass. By this time of year there might be some lingering snow to deal with on the scrambly bits between Mama Bear ("South Little Bear") and the summit but that's better than trying to climb a verglas covered slab like the Hourglass. Probably the biggest drawback is that it must be done in a single push, there's no water or reasonable camp sites on the entire route. Still, having done both, I say the southwest ridge is the superior route.randalmartin wrote: ↑Mon May 31, 2021 7:49 am Hourglass route should be avoided in June in my opinion. Hourglass is good under two conditions, 1] full snow climb (preferred) which is generally between mid April to early May, 2] completely dry (July - September). The hourglass is terrible in late May and the month of June. The icing that occurs in the hourglass makes it an absolute no go for about 6 weeks (including the month of June). I climbed it back on April 25th and it was just about ideal as a snow climb though I can tell you even back then ice was already forming under the snow in parts of the hourglass and based on latest conditions people are reporting it is fully iced.
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Re: Crestone Needle/Peak
Hi all,
Husband and I looking to do the traverse 7/17-7/18. Looks like from peak conditions there's some considerable snow still on the route. Will check peak conditions closer to in hopes that some of that melts off but we'll bring the axes if we must. The airy class 4 crux wall up the needle is giving me some doubts as I don't have true climbing experience (just 14er experience). We did the needle standard route about three years ago but have not done peak. We were thinking of bringing a rope/harness/etc and having my husband climb up and rope me in from the belay station on the crux wall and then I'd climb up. Am I overthinking and scaring myself needlessly or is this a good option? (We had a guide for the Bells traverse and I was very glad to be roped in for that as I had one small slip on a near vertical section where I had to put all of my weight on the rope.) With the snow, descending down the peak sounds pretty dicey in spots.
Any tips appreciated!
Husband and I looking to do the traverse 7/17-7/18. Looks like from peak conditions there's some considerable snow still on the route. Will check peak conditions closer to in hopes that some of that melts off but we'll bring the axes if we must. The airy class 4 crux wall up the needle is giving me some doubts as I don't have true climbing experience (just 14er experience). We did the needle standard route about three years ago but have not done peak. We were thinking of bringing a rope/harness/etc and having my husband climb up and rope me in from the belay station on the crux wall and then I'd climb up. Am I overthinking and scaring myself needlessly or is this a good option? (We had a guide for the Bells traverse and I was very glad to be roped in for that as I had one small slip on a near vertical section where I had to put all of my weight on the rope.) With the snow, descending down the peak sounds pretty dicey in spots.
Any tips appreciated!