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Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 9:12 pm
by jibler
yes that is sound advice on the caution. but I myself have really just delayed this move on longs for a long time so to speak.

I've seen some s**t along the way.

if these routes are even just semi comparable and water is favorable - it would seem at least worth thinking about.


and I wouldn't say no to seeing that big east face up close.


meeker isn't really in play on any other route right?

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 1:03 am
by CaptainSuburbia
jibler wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 9:12 pm meeker isn't really in play on any other route right?
Meeker is easy peasy from the Loft.

I took the Loft route for my first trip up Longs and would reccomend it. Loop it with the keyhole for the full experience. Meeker was a very short detour and well worth it. I didn't think the Loft route was any more difficult than the Keyhole. Good luck!

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 12:01 pm
by MtnHub
[quote
Meeker was a very short detour and well worth it. I didn't think the Loft route was any more difficult than the Keyhole. Good luck!
[/quote]

If you ascend via the Iron Gates and then go up the long ridge of Meeker, you don't even have to backtrack to hit Meeker. It's one nice continuous loop.

The slog of scree and talus between the Gates is about equivalent to ascending the Loft route but you actually get much better views of Longs because it's not hidden by the Prow. When you're high on the ridge, you also get outstanding views of EP and the whole valley vs being locked in the narrow Loft route. This is my favorite loop when you continue on up Longs and then descend via the Keyhole, hitting the best of both peaks. But they're all fun in their own way. Enjoy!

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 12:26 pm
by justiner
I really thought the slog up Iron Gates is less painful one than the Loft when dry. Plus you get that nice ridge traverse.

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2021 8:47 pm
by jibler
big question right now being...

how much smoke will I be willing to put up with?


I am really in the game for the views. I don't like to hike when socked in.

and I'm kind of air snob too - I just said "no way" last summer to hiking at all in that stuff.

if it is just a light mist - maybe. But heavier - eh.

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2021 9:19 pm
by dubsho3000
justiner wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 1:00 pm Loft route is def. a bit longer than Keyhole.
Are you trying to keep the Loft to yourself Justiner? :lol: According to this website, the Loft route is 13 miles round-trip, Keyhole is 14.5 miles. I recommend the up-the-Loft-down-the-Keyhole approach. It's a great tour of the mountain, as was mentioned earlier.

I didn't find the Loft to be any more of a slog than the Keyhole route.

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2021 9:44 pm
by justiner
I hate the loft in summer when it's bare and in the winter as above Keplingers gives me the shakes. I think my mileage is based on shortcuts so I guess Loft is shorter if you don't use 'em :)

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 4:14 pm
by wineguy
MtnHub wrote: Thu Apr 08, 2021 12:01 pm If you ascend via the Iron Gates and then go up the long ridge of Meeker, you don't even have to backtrack to hit Meeker. It's one nice continuous loop.
I thought that the loose boulders on the Iron Gates route were uncomfortable and exhausting. And this is from someone who thought that the route up Thunder Pyramid was reasonably stable. I suppose that on these routes where there is no defined trail, your experience can vary widely depending on exactly where you tread.

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 5:15 pm
by MtnHub
wineguy wrote: Sat Apr 10, 2021 4:14 pm I thought that the loose boulders on the Iron Gates route were uncomfortable and exhausting. And this is from someone who thought that the route up Thunder Pyramid was reasonably stable. I suppose that on these routes where there is no defined trail, your experience can vary widely depending on exactly where you tread.
Yeah, I do think with open routes like these (ie - no painted route markers like on the Keyhole route) there is always some variability. I've been up the Loft route twice (as well as one descent that way) and have done the Iron Gates 3x. Heading up the middle directly between the two Gates I found to be the most unstable.

The last time I went up a few years ago I steered more to the right aiming directly for the western Gate and I found the rocks there to be a little more stable. I do like this route better than the Loft route, however, especially due the outstanding views it offers, but then I kind of like talus climbing in general too. :lol:

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:51 pm
by jerseybrian
Keep in mind the Iron Gates has a pretty airy downclimb off Meeker Ridge's summit. I felt that was more intense than anything on Capitol. Definitely a no fall zone.

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 6:51 am
by MtnHub
jerseybrian wrote: Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:51 pm Keep in mind the Iron Gates has a pretty airy downclimb off Meeker Ridge's summit. I felt that was more intense than anything on Capitol. Definitely a no fall zone.
? -- I'm not trying to argue with you but I am wondering where you were down-climbing. If you descend through the Gates, it's no different than various steep talus slopes on many other mountains. It's certainly not 'airy' in the way Capitol is. I can't imagine you making that comparison.

While I don't recommend this route as a descent since much of the stuff is loose and a bit unstable, it's really not that bad going up. That's why I prefer this as the start of a loop over Meeker and then ascending up Longs via Keplingers. I just think it's a better and more scenic way to reach the Loft if you're planning on hitting Meeker at all.

Re: ISO: water on Longs Peak - mid September ?

Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:29 am
by CaptainSuburbia
MtnHub wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 6:51 am
jerseybrian wrote: Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:51 pm Keep in mind the Iron Gates has a pretty airy downclimb off Meeker Ridge's summit. I felt that was more intense than anything on Capitol. Definitely a no fall zone.
? -- I'm not trying to argue with you but I am wondering where you were down-climbing. If you descend through the Gates, it's no different than various steep talus slopes on many other mountains. It's certainly not 'airy' in the way Capitol is. I can't imagine you making that comparison.

While I don't recommend this route as a descent since much of the stuff is loose and a bit unstable, it's really not that bad going up. That's why I prefer this as the start of a loop over Meeker and then ascending up Longs via Keplingers. I just think it's a better and more scenic way to reach the Loft if you're planning on hitting Meeker at all.
I think he means the traverse from Meeker Ridge summit to Meekers summit. It's class 3 but there is some class 5 exposure.