Black Gendarme Beta?

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
Forum rules
  • This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
  • Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
  • Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
  • Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
    For more details, please see the Terms of Use you agreed to when joining the forum.
Post Reply
User avatar
jackvanlancker
Posts: 15
Joined: 7/6/2020
14ers: 56  3  3 
13ers: 17
Trip Reports (1)
 

Black Gendarme Beta?

Post by jackvanlancker »

Anyone have experience/know anyone who has climbed the Black Gendarme off of Crestone Needle? I read it was FA’ed by Harvey Carter, unsurprisingly, but cannot find any beta on it besides that.
User avatar
ncxhjhgvbi
Posts: 88
Joined: 6/16/2017
14ers: 58  1 
13ers: 58 2
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Black Gendarme Beta?

Post by ncxhjhgvbi »

jackvanlancker wrote: Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:30 pm Anyone have experience/know anyone who has climbed the Black Gendarme off of Crestone Needle? I read it was FA’ed by Harvey Carter, unsurprisingly, but cannot find any beta on it besides that.
You may have already found this info but I found this on mountainproject in the comments, maybe the book will have more info:

"That is an amazing looking tower, isn't it? Good ol' Harvey T. Carter claimed the first ascent of the Black Gendarme in the early 1960's. See W.M. Bueller's "Roof of the Rockies" for more details." Feb 10, 2003"
DaveLanders
Posts: 532
Joined: 3/7/2009
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Black Gendarme Beta?

Post by DaveLanders »

ncxhjhgvbi wrote: Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:45 pm
jackvanlancker wrote: Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:30 pm Anyone have experience/know anyone who has climbed the Black Gendarme off of Crestone Needle? I read it was FA’ed by Harvey Carter, unsurprisingly, but cannot find any beta on it besides that.
You may have already found this info but I found this on mountainproject in the comments, maybe the book will have more info:

"That is an amazing looking tower, isn't it? Good ol' Harvey T. Carter claimed the first ascent of the Black Gendarme in the early 1960's. See W.M. Bueller's "Roof of the Rockies" for more details." Feb 10, 2003"
I looked in my copy of Bueler. Unfortunately there aren't any more details, and there isn't a footnote that points to where the climb might have been written up.
Every village has at least one idiot. Successful villages choose someone else to be their leader.
gore galore
Posts: 92
Joined: 6/1/2012
Trip Reports (40)
 

Re: Black Gendarme Beta?

Post by gore galore »

The source for the first ascent of the Black Gendarme by Michael Borghoff and Harvey T. Carter is found in Summit magazine, August 1960 issue.
Post Reply