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Thanks for the opinions guys! I have the gear and the back to carry 'em, can't say I mind bringing them and not using them. Far better than needing and not having!

I did the keyhole last October and having the crampons made for quick work of the trough, but there wasn't any ice or snow on the mountain besides that.

broncotw wrote:We are planning on attempting Long's Peak on October 8th via the Loft Route.... What can we expect in regards for weather (temperatures, wind, etc.)....

Thanks in advance.....

My neighbor is a climbing guide who was up there last weekend. He says all north-facing surfaces are icy and the Loft is not in good shape. Keyhole is good, so far.

I was up in RMNP yesterday with the family and got a good look at the north-facing aspects. Although this picture doesn't show it, the Loft is snowed in now, as well as the Trough. It looks like everything above ~12,500 has a solid blanket of snow on it, now.

I see Longs every day as I drive into Boulder from Longmont but alas the summit was engulfed in clouds and based on the weather down here I'm guessing that it's receiving a good dusting right now. If the clouds ease up tonight/tomorrow AM I'll post a picture.

Talked with a buddy who was up there yesterday scouting lamb slide to ski. Said it was pretty icy and sketch. Ankle breaking abounded around Chasm Lake.

Did Kiener's yesterday. Lamb's Slide is 6-12" of spindrift over ice ranging from bullet hard to really brittle and fracturing. Broadway and Kiener's both have quite a bit of snow on them. I wouldn't call it "winter" conditions but definitely prepare to be on snow for most of the climb. It's in that transitional stage where we were climbing in crampons but using rock pro because there wasn't any real ice.

The North Face cables descent is very snowy but actually easier to navigate because of the snow - less stumbling over rocks and such. I'll try to post some pics when I get home.

Not to hijack, but it's in the same vicinity.... What does Wild Basin look like? What about the areas with southern exposure?

Floyd wrote:Not to hijack, but it's in the same vicinity.... What does Wild Basin look like? What about the areas with southern exposure?

I attempted Meeker via Meeker Ridge yesterday. It was dry until above 12000, and even then there were only small patches of snow on eastward facing slopes. Here are some pictures I took - unfortunately I don't have any more zoomed in.

Isolation and Alice:


South towards Copeland and the Indian Peaks:


Longs:


Hope this helps!

DanR wrote:

Floyd wrote:Not to hijack, but it's in the same vicinity.... What does Wild Basin look like? What about the areas with southern exposure?

I attempted Meeker via Meeker Ridge yesterday. It was dry until above 12000, and even then there were only small patches of snow on eastward facing slopes. Here are some pictures I took - unfortunately I don't have any more zoomed in.

Hope this helps!

Perfect, that's what I was hoping to see!

Trail 100% dry to Chasm Lake. Loft Couloir has consistent cover not sure of the depth, probably not much.

The Diamond from today, October 4.

Just got a good look this morning while driving in to work (sorry, don't have a pic). There's a fresh blanket of snow on the whole massif and I think more expected tonight. Looks like easy climbing season's over now ...

On my way into work this morning it was socked in with clouds. I'm assuming the "storm" up there will break by tomorrow at some point. I'll see if I can snap a picture, granted it's much farther away than some of these, just to give an idea of what it's looking like right now, or rather after this little weather pattern moves through.