An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

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OldTrad
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An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by OldTrad »

For anyone interested in Blanca, the following is a MUST READ. Unfortunately, Super Topo is 95% decommissioned - so much awesome recorded history on there, especially re: Yosemite Valley climbing, has already been lost. Hence, read this article before it's lost too. Enjoy!

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/An-Absurd-O ... 3125n.html
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by JulianSmith »

Wow, super cool. Thanks for sharing. My own first experience with Blanca was a solo trip up the Ormes Buttress. I love reading about some of the more off the beaten path ascents that take place on 14-ers.
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by greenonion »

That was really good. Great writing. Thanks for sharing!
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by Will_E »

Blows my mind when I see these stories from the 70’s or earlier. We have it so much easier these days.
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by SkaredShtles »

OldTrad wrote: Fri Jan 28, 2022 7:42 am For anyone interested in Blanca, the following is a MUST READ. Unfortunately, Super Topo is 95% decommissioned - so much awesome recorded history on there, especially re: Yosemite Valley climbing, has already been lost. Hence, read this article before it's lost too. Enjoy!

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/An-Absurd-O ... 3125n.html
You know... you can save the good stuff yourself off that site if you're concerned about it being lost...
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by benmangelsdorf »

Really cool, thanks for sharing. Love this:

"Fast forward to the mid 1980’s and a rational approach up Huerfano Creek in July with warm temperatures, long days, and magnificent fields of wildflowers. Really, people, this is the way the mountains ought to be enjoyed."

<3
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by OldTrad »

SkaredShtles wrote: Fri Jan 28, 2022 10:47 am
OldTrad wrote: Fri Jan 28, 2022 7:42 am For anyone interested in Blanca, the following is a MUST READ. Unfortunately, Super Topo is 95% decommissioned - so much awesome recorded history on there, especially re: Yosemite Valley climbing, has already been lost. Hence, read this article before it's lost too. Enjoy!

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/An-Absurd-O ... 3125n.html
You know... you can save the good stuff yourself off that site if you're concerned about it being lost...
Of course, and I have. Unfortunately certain gems were lost, but I only realized that too late after thinking ST would remain as an archive.
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by Cygnus X1 »

I think someone else has an absurd obsession with Blanca. Maybe you shouldn't move to Italy. :lol:
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by Bean »

Hard to tell where exactly they climbed, but we did similar in 2010 because it looked quick and direct. I was not thrilled with the route choice but also was inexperienced-enough to not know just how dumb it was.

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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by mindfolded »

By this time the old miners’ cabin had burned down due to some USFS-induced “lightning-caused” fire, so we set up a tent to serve as our base camp.
I like this little bit of conspiracy theory.
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by OldTrad »

Bean wrote: Fri Jan 28, 2022 12:26 pm Hard to tell where exactly they climbed, but we did similar in 2010 because it looked quick and direct. I was not thrilled with the route choice but also was inexperienced-enough to not know just how dumb it was.
The routes Nick described were all on the opposite side of Blanca from where you guys were - i.e., the Huerfano side, not the Como side. Two of the routes he describes are somewhat well known - Gash Ridge and the so-called Mountaineer's Route, the latter being the route he kept returning to and for those who don't know is the huge, sweeping gully just right/north of Ormes Buttress.
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Re: An Absurd Obsession, the north face of Blanca Peak (read this before it's deleted on ST)

Post by randalmartin »

You really should check out the book "Spell of the Rockies" by Enos Mills. His book was published in 1911. In it he has a chapter titled Sierra Blanca where he describes ascending the North Face, summiting Blanca at sunset and descending the South face and walking out to Fort Garland. It is a pretty amazing account in Winter!!
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