FAQ and threads for those just starting to hike the Colorado 14ers.
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davisrice4 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 10, 2022 6:58 am
The difficulty is without a doubt well within their limits. I am confident Noah, Matt, and Paul can all climb 5.11-5.12 pretty easy. The 5.7 crux is not a physical limit for them, nor really anywhere near the difficulty that would be. The "panicked breathing" could also just be used to focus or supply oxygen to the brain. Its a bit insulting to call it "an accident waiting to happen" when you are not sure of their abilities IMO.
Not specifically about this route, but in general terms sketchy rock is scarier to me than difficulty.
I'd rather solo 5.8 on solid rock over 5.easy or even high 4 on sketchy slippery shiz that might pull out our roll or slip at any moment.
-wren- wrote: ↑Sat Jan 08, 2022 11:46 pmPersonally I’d never want to be pushing my limits like that in trail runners without a rope. You can tell he’s starting to get pumped in 1 or 2 spots…scary stuff.
You got some pretty impressive arm chair deciphering skillz. Apart from that, what you gonna rope up to, dude (or dudette)? Just cause you got a "rope" doesn't mean shits all of a sudden safer and easier. Not to mention the major time sink.
Not trying to knock the guy at all. Crazy impressive stuff and he should be free to solo whatever he wants. Just really spooky to watch in a couple spots…and yeah I’m not touching this thing either way and you have a point that x rated rock and sketchy ass rappels aren’t much safer if at all. Sorry to offend.
-wren- wrote: ↑Sat Jan 08, 2022 11:46 pm
As awesome as this is and as happy as I am for this guy it does hurt me a little to hear the panicked breathing while looking for holds on a couple of those downclimbs. Personally I’d never want to be pushing my limits like that in trail runners without a rope. You can tell he’s starting to get pumped in 1 or 2 spots…scary stuff.
+1K. My comments on p.2 of this post were not complimentary. The "Free Solo" movie probably stoked the interest in soloing, but soloing has a dark history as well. Derek Hersey, etc. many other great climbers are now in their graves. I occasionally solo something too but only if I'm sure it's way, way within my limits, has sort of decent rock, acceptable exposure. Climbing solo at your limits on sketchy rock with exposure? That's just an accident waiting to happen. And fwiw, certainly nothing I'd advertise. My opinions.
-Tom
The difficulty is without a doubt well within their limits. I am confident Noah, Matt, and Paul can all climb 5.11-5.12 pretty easy. The 5.7 crux is not a physical limit for them, nor really anywhere near the difficulty that would be. The "panicked breathing" could also just be used to focus or supply oxygen to the brain. Its a bit insulting to call it "an accident waiting to happen" when you are not sure of their abilities IMO.
Man, I wish I was climbing at the 5.11-12 range haha I definitely felt comfortable on the whole thing and think I'm an outlier in that I feel comfortable soloing up to 5.7 (onsight) and 5.9 (if I know the route). I don't really sport climb so I have no idea where my limit is, but that being said, none of the climbing on this traversed seemed very hard. It was engaging due to the looseness, but we found that the steeper it was, the better quality the rock was. Maybe next year I'll be climbing 5.11-12 haha
Just to throw a little bit of spice into the mix:
Anyone considering a winter traverse? I think it would be an awesome endeavor and since the winter approach for Capitol is typically from Maroon-Snowmass TH (Or at least thats where I started for my winter ascent of Cap in 2020) it would allow a logical loop, starting and ending at the Maroon-Snowmass TH. Maybe in March the snow may hold stuff together a bit, and then you would be rewarded with an enjoyable ski down Snowmass's East slopes.
Just a thought
The difficulty is without a doubt well within their limits. I am confident Noah, Matt, and Paul can all climb 5.11-5.12 pretty easy. The 5.7 crux is not a physical limit for them, nor really anywhere near the difficulty that would be. The "panicked breathing" could also just be used to focus or supply oxygen to the brain. Its a bit insulting to call it "an accident waiting to happen" when you are not sure of their abilities IMO.
Man, I wish I was climbing at the 5.11-12 range haha I definitely felt comfortable on the whole thing and think I'm an outlier in that I feel comfortable soloing up to 5.7 (onsight) and 5.9 (if I know the route). I don't really sport climb so I have no idea where my limit is, but that being said, none of the climbing on this traversed seemed very hard. It was engaging due to the looseness, but we found that the steeper it was, the better quality the rock was. Maybe next year I'll be climbing 5.11-12 haha
To Davis!
I climb pretty comfortably in that range but matt solos a bit more. Im converting him into some more bouldering and sport climbing. He is selling himself short though and is a very solid 5.10+ trad leader ^ I don’t solo much but this was definitely something we wanted try to do without rappelling. And personally felt safer that I had more control over the situation. I totally understand why the party before did some raps especially that drop off capitol! Big thanks to the reports by Noah mckelvin and crew ^ Super helpful. if you are interested in beta or pictures you can message me on Instagram Noah.grage
Also any way this can be taken off of “info for beginners” and maybe put into a different forum or changed by the dude who put it up? If that’s a thing?
I soloed this ridge back in 1996 or 1997. I had met a fellow soloist on the First Flatiron who told me about it. He had soloed it before me. And he said that he was following somebody else's footsteps. A challenging climb, and very loose, but there were some hardcore climbers back in the day.
Tetonclimber wrote: ↑Wed Mar 23, 2022 3:37 pm
I soloed this ridge back in 1996 or 1997.
Rule #1 of first ascents, descents, traverses, solos, etc in the cont. US: just because it’s the first ascent posted online doesn’t mean it’s the first ascent, in fact it’s a very low chance
Tetonclimber wrote: ↑Wed Mar 23, 2022 3:37 pm
I soloed this ridge back in 1996 or 1997. I had met a fellow soloist on the First Flatiron who told me about it. He had soloed it before me. And he said that he was following somebody else's footsteps. A challenging climb, and very loose, but there were some hardcore climbers back in the day.
Not true!!!! No one was any good at anything until the internet & social media came along to motivate people to do great things!!!
Sean Nunn
"Thy righteousness is like the great mountains." --Psalms 36:6