New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

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thetoddman
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by thetoddman » Tue Oct 29, 2019 12:41 pm

XterraRob wrote:
Tue Oct 29, 2019 12:30 pm
Scott P wrote:
Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:18 am
nmjameswilson wrote:
Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:35 am
He beat the record by 7 YEARS and 4 months.
Nirmal Purja is indeed a good climber and his record is incredibly impressive. He has my congradulations and deserves to be honored.

I don't think it's a fair comparison to the previous records though (those set by Messner, Kukuczka, and Chang-ho).

It's still an impressive record, but a different kind of record.

With the exception of Annapurna, Kukuczka climbed all of the 8000ers either by new routes or first winter ascents and without support or supplimental O2.

Purja climbed the mountains (with the exception of K2) with someone else setting up all the fixed lines, camps, and supplies ahead of time, and didn't haul any of his own loads. He also flew from mountain to mountain landing in the base or high camps, rather than at the normal starting points for the peaks. Not only is that a lot faster, but he could choose his weather windows by doing so. He also had a huge supply of bottled O2.

So, his record is still a record and very impressive, but it's kind of an apples and oranges comparison when compared to previous records.

Although the 8000er record is much harder, a comparison could be made on the Colorado 14ers.

If someone had access to air support, drove nearly to the top of Evans and Pikes, and flew into places like Chicago Basin, Snowmass Lake, Capitol Lake, etc., but still summitted all of the peaks, would it still be the 14er record?

I guess it would be a 14er record, but a different type of record than Cavedog's or other's previous records.

PS, I'm not saying that Purja flew to any summits as close as you can drive to Pikes Peak or Evans or that the record isn't a record or that it isn't incredibly impressive. It is impressive and it is a record. I congradulate Purja.

It just seems like a different type of record than the previous ones. It's still really cool either way though.

I wonder if the record will lead to controversy? I hope not, especially since it will take away from the accomplishment, but it might. I guess we'll just have to wait and see how the mountaineering community reacts. I'm just guessing that there are going to be arguements from both sides when discussing the record, or records in the future.
Oh man... here we go. :lol:
I sure hope he followed the 3,000 ft rule on the Lhotse/Everest climbs, otherwise... :roll:
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by CaptCO » Tue Oct 29, 2019 12:45 pm

Nims is THE MAN, congrats! Very nice guy as well
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by Scott P » Tue Oct 29, 2019 1:47 pm

There is no controversy, only armchair mountaineering by people who have zero high altitude experience.
Are you willing to bet that there won't be any controversy concerning the record among the mountaineering community (including from experienced 8000 meter climbers)?

I'm betting that there will be and I will take a bet against anyone who disagrees.

As for me, I have long said that it doesn't matter to me how anyone climbs a mountain or in what style and long as they leave the mountain clean and aren't a danger to others. Therefore, I support the style the Purja or anyone else chooses to climb with. People should be free to choose their own style of climbing as long as it doesn't mess up the mountain. As for me, climbers should just all give each other pats on the back and congratulations regardless of our different goals or styles. I congratulate Purja on his great achievements.

What I am saying is that the record is a different type of record than previous ones and I am predicting that there might be a controversy concerning the record. Time will tell, but I'm willing to bet that its coming.

Climbers such as Messner used to be super vocal about such things, but he has quieted down in recent years. I wouldn't call him an armchair mountaineer.

PS, do you really think that only 8000 meters qualifies as high altitude experience? If so, you are probably alone in this matter.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by cottonmountaineering » Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:15 pm

Scott P wrote:
Tue Oct 29, 2019 1:47 pm
There is no controversy, only armchair mountaineering by people who have zero high altitude experience.
Are you willing to bet that there won't be any controversy concerning the record among the mountaineering community (including from experienced 8000 meter climbers)?

I'm betting that there will be and I will take a bet against anyone who disagrees.

As for me, I have long said that it doesn't matter to me how anyone climbs a mountain or in what style and long as they leave the mountain clean and aren't a danger to others. Therefore, I support the style the Purja or anyone else chooses to climb with. People should be free to choose their own style of climbing as long as it doesn't mess up the mountain. As for me, climbers should just all give each other pats on the back and congratulations regardless of our different goals or styles. I congratulate Purja on his great achievements.

What I am saying is that the record is a different type of record than previous ones and I am predicting that there might be a controversy concerning the record. Time will tell, but I'm willing to bet that its coming.

Climbers such as Messner used to be super vocal about such things, but he has quieted down in recent years. I wouldn't call him an armchair mountaineer.

PS, do you really think that only 8000 meters qualifies as high altitude experience? If so, you are probably alone in this matter.
You're crazy dude, let me know when Messner says that Nims' should have done it in a different style
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by FireOnTheMountain » Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:47 pm

Not only was Scott very civil and humble in his analysis/breakdown, but he provided an analogy all us 14er idiots could understand (ie the 14er speed record).

I appreciated his input, which did not demean the accomplishment, but only shed more insight into the effort. There is nothing wrong with explicitly saying what you did, or did not do, to reach a goal.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by Scott P » Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:47 pm

You're crazy dude, let me know when Messner says that Nims' should have done it in a different style
Not crazy; I just know my mountaineering history.

As mentioned, Messner isn't as vocal as he used to be, so I don't know if he will say anything this time around. Mark my words though, at least some other mountaineers will say something negative about the style. I won't be one of them. I support climbers climbing in whatever style they choose too.

And Messner has already has said many times that climbers should climb in a different style. Apparently you haven't been paying attention. PS; I don't agree with Messner on this topic.

PS, I was just at Messner's house a few months ago, but I don't think I'd have the guts to ask him questions about this. :)
Last edited by Scott P on Tue Oct 29, 2019 3:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by nsaladin » Tue Oct 29, 2019 3:07 pm

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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by cottonmountaineering » Tue Oct 29, 2019 3:56 pm

nsaladin wrote:
Tue Oct 29, 2019 3:07 pm
And then there's this: https://explorersweb.com/2019/10/25/man ... ue-summit/
Most climbers on cho oyu, shishapangma do not reach the real summit either
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by oldschool » Tue Oct 29, 2019 4:21 pm

cottonmountaineering wrote:
Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:15 pm
Scott P wrote:
Tue Oct 29, 2019 1:47 pm
There is no controversy, only armchair mountaineering by people who have zero high altitude experience.
Are you willing to bet that there won't be any controversy concerning the record among the mountaineering community (including from experienced 8000 meter climbers)?

I'm betting that there will be and I will take a bet against anyone who disagrees.

As for me, I have long said that it doesn't matter to me how anyone climbs a mountain or in what style and long as they leave the mountain clean and aren't a danger to others. Therefore, I support the style the Purja or anyone else chooses to climb with. People should be free to choose their own style of climbing as long as it doesn't mess up the mountain. As for me, climbers should just all give each other pats on the back and congratulations regardless of our different goals or styles. I congratulate Purja on his great achievements.

What I am saying is that the record is a different type of record than previous ones and I am predicting that there might be a controversy concerning the record. Time will tell, but I'm willing to bet that its coming.

Climbers such as Messner used to be super vocal about such things, but he has quieted down in recent years. I wouldn't call him an armchair mountaineer.

PS, do you really think that only 8000 meters qualifies as high altitude experience? If so, you are probably alone in this matter.
You're crazy dude, let me know when Messner says that Nims' should have done it in a different style
The issue isn't that he "should have done it in a different style.." The issue is HE DID IT in a different style. Flying from area to area...right. Having others setup ropes and camps and carry his loads..right. That is certainly a style but....not the style of Messner nor many many others that are legends.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by SkaredShtles » Tue Oct 29, 2019 4:41 pm

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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by Cotopaxi20 » Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:43 pm

I suppose now, that anything goes. Why have any standards at all? I guess I'll go to Everest with enough bottles for full flow from Lukla to the summit, in record time!, and return. So what.
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Re: New World Record for all 14 8000 meter Peaks

Post by LetsGoMets » Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:09 pm

Something tells me Messner understands impressive when he sees it.


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