First Time Over 20K'?
Forum rules
- This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
- Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
- Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
- Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
- Brad2
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 10/22/2017
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
There are some great responses in this thread. I'll throw in my two cents to say you would not regret ascending Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, perhaps with a guide if you feel, as you say, that those are beyond your experience level. Or, you could also gain the necessary skills fairly quickly prior to departure. They are much shorter affairs than Aconcagua.
Ecuador is incredibly beautiful, and reasonably safe if you do your homework in advance and follow standard precautions. I'll never forget my two months there.
Ecuador is incredibly beautiful, and reasonably safe if you do your homework in advance and follow standard precautions. I'll never forget my two months there.
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
Legally, you are required to take a guide anyway. Conditions vary greatly on Chimborazo. It can be icy under bad conditions.The issue I have with that is Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, and Cayambe are beyond my expertise. I might be in over my head.
Anyway, opinions vary, but personally I would not recommend Ojos del Salado. I found it to be crowded, very dirty (especially in relation to most of Chile), uninteresting, and miserable. It's also expensive to get to whether or not you take a guide.
If you like the desert type peaks, a much better option are the peaks around the Colca Canyon and Arequipa. That area is more scenic, easier to get to, more interesting, has much more wildlife, is less crowded, and is much less expensive than Ojos.
That part of Mexico doesn't really have any unusual problems.I would love to go back and do Ixta & Orizaba, but spooked a little by the travel advisory (travel to a US city is likely more dangerous),
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
Scott, I’ll give there are much nicer and interesting mountains than Ojos, but he wants a short beginner climb at 20 K. I found the area around Ojos in the Atacama desert to be really beautiful. Not crowded at all and well worth the trip. But yeah that dust does get to you.
The summit is a source of power. The long view gives one knowledge and time to prepare. The summit, by virtue of the dizzying exposure, leaves one vulnerable. A bit of confidence and a dash of humility is all we get for our work. Yet to share these moments with friends is to be human. C. Anker
- Brad2
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 10/22/2017
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
Your trip report definitely made me want to do it, desertdog/Richard. Good work!
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
The area around Colca Canyon is still much more scenic and interesting, not to mention cheaper, and with more wildlife; and the mountains are equally fit for beginners (probably even more so).I found the area around Ojos in the Atacama desert to be really beautiful.
You will just have to visit both yourself and see (if you haven't already). As I said though, opinions vary.
Anyway, I'd go to the Colca region and over again (and probably will; I have already been more than once), but once was more than enough for Ojos.
Speaking of Ojos though, I have heard the Argentine side is much nicer. I kind of do wish we went to that side.
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
- timf
- Posts: 715
- Joined: 8/10/2007
- 14ers: 35 3
- 13ers: 27
- Trip Reports (2)
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
Do you think the odds of finding a climbing partner for this region is better then that for Parinacota? It seems as though for me to get up that high I may have to be willing to play in a crevasse field. Otherwise I think Ampato would fit the bill.Scott P wrote:If you like the desert type peaks, a much better option are the peaks around the Colca Canyon and Arequipa. That area is more scenic, easier to get to, more interesting, has much more wildlife, is less crowded, and is much less expensive than Ojos.
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
I don't know. I may be interested. Guides tend to be quite cheap in the region as well, especially when compared to other areas.Do you think the odds of finding a climbing partner for this region is better then that for Parinacota?
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
- timf
- Posts: 715
- Joined: 8/10/2007
- 14ers: 35 3
- 13ers: 27
- Trip Reports (2)
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
Guides may be cheap, but it would be more enjoyable to go with someone I know or get to know. So let me know. Hualca Hualca and Ampato look interesting!Scott P wrote:I don't know. I may be interested. Guides tend to be quite cheap in the region as well, especially when compared to other areas.Do you think the odds of finding a climbing partner for this region is better then that for Parinacota?
- timf
- Posts: 715
- Joined: 8/10/2007
- 14ers: 35 3
- 13ers: 27
- Trip Reports (2)
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
Didn't pan out as a perfect trip, but I made it up Pico Austria at 17438', got up to 19402' on Acotango (stopped to not having my ice ax because my guide said I didn't need it and didn't feel good about self arresting odds with trekking poles), and made it up Huisalla at 16500'+ next to Sajama as a consolation prize because Parinacota had a really bad wind forecast that last day (55mph without gusts). So overall a successful trip. I'm confident I could have broken above 20K'.. thanks to all on their advice!
- Alpine Guy
- Posts: 394
- Joined: 7/8/2007
- 14ers: 40
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
Congratulations on those summits. Did you get a chance to use the Degres and the crampons?
Roll No Rocks
- timf
- Posts: 715
- Joined: 8/10/2007
- 14ers: 35 3
- 13ers: 27
- Trip Reports (2)
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
I did and they worked perfectly! I stashed both in my pack until after we were skirting a sub-peak on Acotango on the northern part of the ridge. Once on the ridge they fit fine and worked great!
The 2 peaks I summited were snow free so by winter boots were fine for those.
The 2 peaks I summited were snow free so by winter boots were fine for those.
- nomad_games
- Posts: 171
- Joined: 7/7/2017
- 14ers: 21 2
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: First Time Over 20K'?
I'm hoping to go above 20k by the end of the year. Would love to do Peru in Sept or Oct. My current personal record is just under 17 on Izta. Tried to do it in 2 days while living at sea level. Made it to the glacier crossing and couldn't move anymore due to piercing pain in my head and really slow/confused thinking. oh and sketchy crampons.
unfortunately I only have about 9 days max in one stretch unless I wait until December.
unfortunately I only have about 9 days max in one stretch unless I wait until December.