K2 in Winter

[Traveler]

Hard to believe that K2 has still never been summited in winter.
https://news.nationalgeographic.com/201 ... oland-spd/
Apparently a Polish team is trying to be the first.

[pvnisher]

I thought The Great Camillo did that years ago??

[SkaredShtles]

Hard to believe that K2 has still never been summited in winter.

Not hard for we mere mortals to believe.

[spiderman]

Those guys are insanely brave. I assume that their chance of dying on the trip is much greater than their chance of summiting. What a shame that all of the "easy" mountaineering accomplishments have checked off and now we are left with the increasingly insane challenges, such as K2 in the winter, day-hiking Annapurna, or completing the 14ers in 8 days. Good luck to all of the people dreaming Big in 2018!

http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/12 ... bs-are-on/

[kaiman]

Thanks for the link. It will be interesting to see if they are successful. If anyone can do it, it will be a Polish team as those guys and gals are some of the toughest climbers out there (see the book Freedom Climbers), and were the first to summit any of the 8000 meter peaks in the winter.

I read somewhere that there is a 15% success rate on 8000 meter peaks in the winter, and the peaks in the Everest region of the Himalaya are “easier” in the winter both logistically and weather wise than the Karakoram, so much of there trip will be completely out of their hands. The last 8000 meter peak in the Karakoram to be climbed in the winter was Nanga Parbat in 2016 by Simon Moro and it took 31 attempts by different groups before someone was successful.

Kai

[XterraRob]

Been keeping an eye out for this, what route are they looking at taking? Hitting that peak in the winter has got to be so insane.

[Scott P]

I read somewhere that there is a 15% success rate on 8000 meter peaks in the winter, and the peaks in the Everest region of the Himalaya are “easier” in the winter both logistically and weather wise than the Karakoram, so much of there trip will be completely out of their hands. The last 8000 meter peak in the Karakoram to be climbed in the winter was Nanga Parbat in 2016 by Simon Moro and it took 31 attempts by different groups before someone was successful.

Great post and info, but for clarification, Nanga Parbat is in the Himalaya rather than the Karakoram. Nanga Parbat is the only 8000 meter peak in Pakistan that is not in the Karakoram, the others being gathered in the K2 region.

[Deanxpv]

Been keeping an eye out for this, what route are they looking at taking? Hitting that peak in the winter has got to be so insane.

From what I saw they are going up the cesen route.

[kaiman]

Great post and info, but for clarification, Nanga Parbat is in the Himalaya rather than the Karakoram. Nanga Parbat is the only 8000 meter peak in Pakistan that is not in the Karakoram, the others being gathered in the K2 region.

You're right, that was my mistake, thanks for the correction. I would still argue however that Nanga Parbat’s location in Pakistan makes it more similar logistically and weather wise to the Karakoram peaks than the Himalaya.

Kai

[kaiman]

From what I saw they are going up the cesen route.

Wow! Interesting route choice. The Cesen route is certainly direct but has a high chance of avalanches and is difficult to retreat down. Plus you still have to deal with the upper portion of the Abruzzi ridge that has killed so many climbers. Hopefully they all make it out the the other side ok.

Kai

[Scott P]

You're right, that was my mistake, thanks for the correction. I would still argue however that Nanga Parbat’s location in Pakistan makes it more similar logistically and weather wise to the Karakoram peaks than the Himalaya.

Yes, the Himalaya in Pakistan and far northern India follow similar weather patters to that of the Karakorum. Nanga Parbat does have a reputation for fierce storms since it stands more alone than other 8000 meter peaks.

Wow! Interesting route choice. The Cesen route is certainly direct but has a high chance of avalanches and is difficult to retreat down. Plus you still have to deal with the upper portion of the Abruzzi ridge that has killed so many climbers.

All the above is true, but is still considered the "safest" line on the mountain. It is also considered the second "easiest" route, after the Abruzzi .

[I Man]

You're right, that was my mistake, thanks for the correction. I would still argue however that Nanga Parbat’s location in Pakistan makes it more similar logistically and weather wise to the Karakoram peaks than the Himalaya.

Yes, the Himalaya in Pakistan and far northern India follow similar weather patters to that of the Karakorum. Nanga Parbat does have a reputation for fierce storms since it stands more alone than other 8000 meter peaks.

Wow! Interesting route choice. The Cesen route is certainly direct but has a high chance of avalanches and is difficult to retreat down. Plus you still have to deal with the upper portion of the Abruzzi ridge that has killed so many climbers.

All the above is true, but is still considered the "safest" line on the mountain. It is also considered the second "easiest" route, after the Abruzzi .

We were lucky enough to be there this summer and meet many of the members of the Polish team attempting this winter. Many have climbed the peak before and have years of experience in the range. They seemed to think the Chesen Ridge was the superior route choice - one significant reason being that it is less exposed to the punishing winter winds than the Abruzzi. These are some really talented and experienced guys (for example one of them had day tripped Broad Peak a few years ago). Hoping they get it!