K2 in Winter

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jmanner
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Re: K2 in Winter

Post by jmanner »

Scott P wrote:Denis is off the expedition. His teammates are very upset (understandable) about his rogue attempt without telling anyone.
Denis is a bit crazy, but doing an 8000m peak in winter might sometimes require such a mindset.
I don't know about that. He does have a reputation of being a dangerous partner and his rogue attempt just strengthens this assertion. If he would have had told his teammates and had support, my thoughts might be different, but it doesn't seem like a good move.

There was a somewhat similar controversy on the first ascent of Nanga Parbat. Herman Buhl did climb to the summit without the expedition leader's permission, but that was different and the leader was a real *ss. Buhl also didn't go out without telling his teammates and never really put his other teammates in danger.
He did do a standing bivy at what?, 8000m and brought only a few ounces of chocalate milk, thats not even including all his solo climbs, at like 5.10, in the alps, in winter. Guy was on another level. Shame a cornice killed him of all things.
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

'Life is too short to ski groomers'

"That man's only desire was to stand, once only, on the summit of that glorious wedge of rock...I think anyone who loves the mountains as much as that can claim to be a mountaineer, too."-Hermann Buhl, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
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Candace66
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Re: K2 in Winter

Post by Candace66 »

https://www.facebook.com/Polski-Himalai ... 080550304/

Now there's this... I guess he takes the Feb. 28 cutoff very seriously! (Meaning, since they didn't summit by then, he thinks it is not worth staying.)
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kaiman
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Re: K2 in Winter

Post by kaiman »

Candace66 wrote:https://www.facebook.com/Polski-Himalai ... 080550304/

Now there's this... I guess he takes the Feb. 28 cutoff very seriously! (Meaning, since they didn't summit by then, he thinks it is not worth staying.)
Capture.JPG
Bummer. Yep, it sounds like it's game over for a K2 summit in 2018. But the Poles are nothing if not persistent and I'm sure they'll be back in another year or two to try again (maybe without Denis Urubko next time).

Kai
"I want to keep the mountains clean of racism, religion and politics. In the mountains this should play no role."

- Joe Stettner

"I haven't climbed Everest, skied to the poles, or sailed single-handed around the world. The goals I set out to accomplish aren't easily measured or quantified by world records or "firsts." The reasons I climb, and the climbs I do, are about more than distance or altitude, they are about breaking barriers within myself."

- Andy Kirkpatrick
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Alan Arnette
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Re: K2 in Winter

Post by Alan Arnette »

The Polish K2 winter team has ended their effort after 30" of new snow, buried ropes and high camps believed to be blown away. Similar storyline for the Everest team who ended their expedition last week. Both were on the mountains since early January. Solid effort by both teams. K2 remains the only 8000er not summited in winter.
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Curve
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Re: K2 in Winter

Post by Curve »

A quote from Adam Bielecki, "Climbing up is too dangerous and we do not have enough time to wait for better conditions. We must come back here because climbing K2 in winter is doable!"

They had an excellent effort, hopefully they return very soon.
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