Aconcagua 2015/16

[kman]

Another vote for January. Summited in January 2013. The Viento Blanco or "white wind," never really reared its ugly head after December, and we summited with 2 mph wind and sunny skies. Guys opting to wear 8000 m down suits that day were soaked in sweat and suffering. This is a good trip report detailing some issues with going during the early season: http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=13186" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[pbakwin]

I summited via Normal Route on 2/18/04 & 2/3/05. First trip we were delayed summiting by one day due to wind. Second trip no delays & also my brother summited the following day. We liked Feb for slightly less crowds (still crowded) and cheaper permit. We acclimated in Bolivia & spent minimal time on Aconcagua. Second trip was 4 days from Mendoza & back to Mendoza.

[shredthegnar10]

Like many others, I also summited in early January (January 6) in 2013. When I got off the plane in Mendoza (December 25), there were some people in the airport who were saying that no one had summited for two weeks because they'd had very high winds. I'm not sure if that's true, but I was lucky enough to have pretty good weather most of the time I was up there.
That said, I don't think there's any place on earth where there isn't a risk of just getting unlucky and happening to be in a place when a storm happens during a time of year when the weather is usually good.

[jblyth]

Like many others, I also summited in early January (January 6) in 2013. When I got off the plane in Mendoza (December 25), there were some people in the airport who were saying that no one had summited for two weeks because they'd had very high winds. I'm not sure if that's true, but I was lucky enough to have pretty good weather most of the time I was up there.
That said, I don't think there's any place on earth where there isn't a risk of just getting unlucky and happening to be in a place when a storm happens during a time of year when the weather is usually good.

Yeah, I've had bad weather in prime seasons on several trips, and gotten lucky many times in early/shoulder seasons. We knew we were lowering our chances statistically by going that early, but it was the only time that worked for both our schedules. There are upsides to late November/early December if the weather cooperates: less people on the mountain, better campsites and cheaper permits. I've heard plenty of people call the area ugly once it dries out, but I'd say it's one of the more aesthetic ranges I've seen when snow covered. A lot of people bash this mountain and call it a "giant Sawatch peak", but it can be very challenging depending on season, conditions and route choice.

If I ever go back, I would do what Pbakwin did and acclimate somewhere else (around Mendoza or Ecuador) and try to spend less time on the mountain. All the sitting around acclimating (and short carry days) was boring for me. It didn't help we were stuck in the tent for 16-18 hours some days.

[CorduroyCalves]

Yeah, I've had bad weather in prime seasons on several trips, and gotten lucky many times in early/shoulder seasons. We knew we were lowering our chances statistically by going that early, but it was the only time that worked for both our schedules. There are upsides to late November/early December if the weather cooperates: less people on the mountain, better campsites and cheaper permits. I've heard plenty of people call the area ugly once it dries out, but I'd say it one of the more aesthetic ranges I've seen when snow covered. A lot of people bash this mountain and call it a "giant Sawatch peak", but it can be very challenging depending on season, conditions and route choice.

If I ever go back, I would do what Pbakwin did and acclimate somewhere else (around Mendoza or Ecuador) and try to spend less time on the mountain. All the sitting around acclimating (and short carry days) was boring for me. It didn't help we were stuck in the tent for 16-18 hours some days.

How much cheaper are permits going early/late as opposed to going in January?

[jblyth]

Yeah, I've had bad weather in prime seasons on several trips, and gotten lucky many times in early/shoulder seasons. We knew we were lowering our chances statistically by going that early, but it was the only time that worked for both our schedules. There are upsides to late November/early December if the weather cooperates: less people on the mountain, better campsites and cheaper permits. I've heard plenty of people call the area ugly once it dries out, but I'd say it one of the more aesthetic ranges I've seen when snow covered. A lot of people bash this mountain and call it a "giant Sawatch peak", but it can be very challenging depending on season, conditions and route choice.

If I ever go back, I would do what Pbakwin did and acclimate somewhere else (around Mendoza or Ecuador) and try to spend less time on the mountain. All the sitting around acclimating (and short carry days) was boring for me. It didn't help we were stuck in the tent for 16-18 hours some days.

How much cheaper are permits going early/late as opposed to going in January?

They are listed on this link below, it's $582 vs. $800 if you're using a provider (using mules counts). When the blue rate was going (floating currency black market) you could get 40% off, too. That just ended this month with the new president.

http://www.andesport.com/aconcagua-climbing-permits/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[cbrobin]

http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/ ... casts/6000" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The weather looks good for the next few days.

0-5 at the summit

10-18 at 18,600

If it's not super windy I would be very comfortable with those conditions. Of course it's likely to feel colder with the elevation and all.

[herdbull]

When the blue rate was going (floating currency black market) you could get 40% off, too. That just ended this month with the new president.

http://www.andesport.com/aconcagua-climbing-permits/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

while the blue rate has ended the value of the actual dollar rose to almost blue levels. The official exchange rate was around 9.8:1 it is now around 13.8:1 so you'll still get an awesome exchange rate. My permit payment was done in pesos by the permit office and not US dollars. Not sure how fast things are happening down there on the street. Are they raising prices on everything to cover the "new" official rate? Dunno if not you might score some pretty good deals because all of the prices of all goods were set using the old official rate.

Anyways.... have fun, it's a great trip!

[pbakwin]

One worthwhile side trip we did in '05 was to run up from Confluencia to Plaza Francia at the base of the South Face. We gawked in horror at the thought of anyone climbing that huge face as debris rained down. Spectacular!

[DrFunk]

After getting home I got an email from someone we met on the mountain. He reached the summit on the day we got back to the trail head on our way out. He was climbing alone, reached the summit at 6pm, had to call to be rescued. The rescuers found him at 6am. He had been outside any shelter for 26 hours, had frostbite on all his fingers and one of his toes, and he had to be air lifted off the mountain. Hearing this made me glad we didn't try to go for the summit from our high camp at 19500 ft. It sounds like this guy was pretty close to dying and that is no way to climb.

[CorduroyCalves]

After getting home I got an email from someone we met on the mountain. He reached the summit on the day we got back to the trail head on our way out. He was climbing alone, reached the summit at 6pm, had to call to be rescued. The rescuers found him at 6am. He had been outside any shelter for 26 hours, had frostbite on all his fingers and one of his toes, and he had to be air lifted off the mountain. Hearing this made me glad we didn't try to go for the summit from our high camp at 19500 ft. It sounds like this guy was pretty close to dying and that is no way to climb.

That's terrible. . . in many ways.

[jblyth]

After getting home I got an email from someone we met on the mountain. He reached the summit on the day we got back to the trail head on our way out. He was climbing alone, reached the summit at 6pm, had to call to be rescued. The rescuers found him at 6am. He had been outside any shelter for 26 hours, had frostbite on all his fingers and one of his toes, and he had to be air lifted off the mountain. Hearing this made me glad we didn't try to go for the summit from our high camp at 19500 ft. It sounds like this guy was pretty close to dying and that is no way to climb.

That's terrible. Was that Alex from Germany?

Ryan from Norway made the summit six days after we left, said it took him 18 hours r/t from Nido because all of the unconsolidated snow. Sounds like it was a brutal day.