Ecuador Circuit - Logistics/Planning/Info

[Monster5]

Sort of beating the subject to death, but it is a lot harder to get by without a guide now than it was even a few years ago. The guides all know each other and are likely to report you to a ranger or the hut caretaker (who radios the ranger). At $100-$300 a person, the guides/caretakers aren't all that happy to see somebody getting a free pass.

A friend was able to skirt the rangers on Illiniza Norte last year and cruise up as a daytrip, but I don't think that's likely on the higher peaks. The Illinizas are a bit more relaxed.

The exception to the rule is if you're climbing a new or infrequent route. You can petition to go unguided, provided an extensive international resume.

It is possible to hire pack animals/handlers to carry your pack and food up to some refuges. I'm not sure how to arrange it with them without going through a guide though.

4WD taxis are actually pretty flexible and not that complicated since there is local cell phone service at the huts. You should be able to contact your driver at the refuge to change pickup time.

As per guide cost, you can get away with a sketchy partner style type for roughly $50/peak <~18K and $150/peak>18K. An actual guide and fully supported will be around $200/$400. Bit less for a package deal.

I didn't particularly enjoy the Ecuador peak experience. Heard good things above Bolivia and Arequipa area (southern Peru). There was a recent Bolivia article on Summitpost discussing peaks.

[Hoocharoni]

Sweet, no this all is good stuff. I've climbed a couple of glaciated peaks so am looking now to take my first steps into possibly doing some international climbing. A guide/traveling partner to go along with my group might not be a bad idea anyway. Very interested in researching these other options. Appreciate it.

[kaiman]

I would also add that in addition to the legal ramifications of not hiring a guide, probably one of the biggest reasons to hire one is that it will add money to the local economy. Ecuador is one of the poorest countries in the western hemisphere and it makes sense (to me at least), to help guides make a living so they can support their families so they can get out of poverty. In reality, mountaineering and guide services in South America are relatively cheap compared to North America, Europe or particularly the Himalaya. $100-300 per person cost is small price to pay to climb some beautiful and easily accessible 6000 meter peaks in my opinion. Also, as other people have said you don't have to hire someone to carry your stuff or pull you up the mountain ala Everest but just to "partner" with you while on the peaks or help provide logistics between peaks.

Just my two cents,

Kai

[Hoocharoni]

Agreed Kai. I just wasn't interested in a catered experience. Sounds like there are options in guides that avoid that as much as possible.

[I Man]

I cannot recommend the Cordillera Blanca in Peru enough. When I think of the Andes, those are the mountains I think of. We had no trouble getting around the guide requirements, and it is really only a suggestion. My impression is it is much more strict in Ecuador. I also prefer to use my money in countries that promote climbing instead of ones that place needless restrictions. I was very happy to support the local economy in Peru while also getting to climb in a style that I felt comfortable with. Another reason is that Ecuador is volcanoes, while Peru has chains of snowy icy goodness.

[Scott P]

while Peru has chains of snowy icy goodness.

And volcanoes.

It also has some of the world's driest deserts and some of the thickest jungles. It also has some nice beaches.

[Hoocharoni]

I cannot recommend the Cordillera Blanca in Peru enough.

Any recommendations on a circuit? I've seen some people doing three or four peaks in a timeframe of 15-21 days which looks interesting. Other than what are probably the most notorious (Chopicalqui, Pisco Oeste, Ishinca, Urus Este) any other loops that you did that worked well as far as acclimatization and overall experience goes? I know our experience levels likely differ.

[I Man]

I cannot recommend the Cordillera Blanca in Peru enough.

Any recommendations on a circuit? I've seen some people doing three or four peaks in a timeframe of 15-21 days which looks interesting. Other than what are probably the most notorious (Chopicalqui, Pisco Oeste, Ishinca, Urus Este) any other loops that you did that worked well as far as acclimatization and overall experience goes? I know our experience levels likely differ.

15-21 days would give you the opportunity to get up some good routes. Typically, I think people travel to Huarez, hang out a bit, chat with guides about conditions and apply that to a loose idea of a list of peaks they were interested in. July typically has great weather and conditions, and my team was able to climb our top 3 choices of peaks.

I hear great things about Pisco and the other peaks in that valley, plus there is a refugio there (Refugios rock!). Just doing the Santa Cruz Valley trek is worth it, and you can access Alpamayo from that valley - a great climb. If you are looking for altitude, Huascaran Sur is a truly amazing peak.

The range has something like 2 dozen peaks over 6000m and another 100+ over 5000m (I think) - so chances are there will eb a good goal for your team that lines up conditions, skill level and timing.

Happy to answer any questions about the area. There are also many others on this forum that have spent far more time in Peru than I have. But really...choose Peru!

PS...Season for Peru and Ecuador are opposites...

[Scott P]

PS...Season for Peru and Ecuador are opposites...

Well, kind of. The peaks in the Occidental (Illinizas and Chimborazo), plus Cotopaxi are best in June and July. There is a second shorter "dry" season in December/January (February for Altar and Antisana), so since the Oriental is best to climb then, December/January is ideal if you want to climb in both ranges.

[I Man]

PS...Season for Peru and Ecuador are opposites...

Well, kind of. The peaks in the Occidental (Illinizas and Chimborazo), plus Cotopaxi are best in June and July. There is a second shorter "dry" season in December/January (February for Altar and Antisana), so since the Oriental is best to climb then, December/January is ideal if you want to climb in both ranges.

As I said, others on this forum have more experience in South America than myself. Thanks for the clarification, Scott.

I have often struggled with ideas for a trip during our winter. Ecuador doesn't interest me, and my goals in the Dry Andes require significant time commitment. I am simply too partial to Peru, Alaska and Canada...making it difficult to find a good trip during our winter.

[JtheChemE]

+ 1 to Iman.

I just got back from climbing in Peru, literally 2 days ago. I cannot put into words how amazing the Cordillera Blanca range is. Stunning beauty on a scale that simply dwarfs what any photo can show. There is something for every skill level in the range, logistically it is very accessible, and your dollar goes very far.

I'm already planning my next climbing trip to Peru.

[Scott P]

Ecuador doesn't interest me

I'm guessing the Altar massif (Ecuador) might (?) interest you.



It's not as extensive as the Blanca though, but if you are looking for something in our winter, it might be worth a peek. I think it is mostly exempt from the guiding requirement, mostly because most guides don't have the skills to climb those peaks.

Here's a wide angle view (too wide to put in the post):

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Altar# ... cuador.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have often struggled with ideas for a trip during our winter.

There are many good choices that time of year. In South America, Patagonia, Venezuela (though I don't know if I'd go there right now), Colombia, Ecuador, and the Puna de Atacama are good. Places like Mount Kenya and the Rwensori in Africa are good and might interest you. New Zealand for sure.

Actually, the Nepal Himalaya isn't bad then either if you don't mind sub 7000 meter peaks (unless you are a bada**, then you can climb the really big ones then too!).

If you don't mind jungle type mountains instead of glaciers, our winter has endless possibilities in Central America, northern South America, central Africa, southeast Asia, etc.

It may not interest you, but the jungle-type mountains have their own attraction and are spectacular in their own way. Here are some of my favorites: