Hawaii suggestions

[Steve Gio]

We did 12 days a few years back and hit Kauai and the big island. There was plenty to do so in a 2 week period I would stick with the Maui and Hawaii plan. Back then we weren't backpackers so I would love to go back in different fasion. Even though our condos on both islands were sooooo sweet.

Enjoy your trip. Send pics.

[mjsherman]

Kauai was awesome!! Spent a week there and needed more time. Na Pali Coast was very fun. Snorkle it if you end up going there. Very good. Kid friendly also. Can backpack to the beach which is only way to get there on land. We took a zodiac boat around the South side to the Na Pali and that was fun also. Saw lots of marine life and tour of different movie scene spots. Have fun.
Matt

[bergsteigen]

I went to Hawaii twice back in 2006. Haleakala is the star attraction along with Volcano NP for me. I don't have any topo/trail maps uploaded, but I do have a ton of photos.

Sunrise Haleakala
Sliding Sands trail (Haleakala)

The rest of Hawaii

I'm sure you will enjoy your trip, no matter where you go!

[CCSARCAP]

My wife and I spent almost three weeks in Hawaii in September. We rented a home three doors from the ocean in Poipu, Kauai (great snorkeling, swimming and boogie boarding only minutes from the house). Also took the bike ride down the canyon and kayaking. We then went to the big island and stayed at a B&B in Volcano. Some of the roads in Volcano Nat'l Park were closed so the hiking was minimal BUT we did something that turned out to be as spectacular as something on Nat'l Geo!!!! The Nat'l Park tells you they have a viewing area on the south side of the island and if the flow is running you see a little bit of that. What they don't tell you (because it's not on their property LOL) is that there is access to viewing the flow that goes into the ocean from the southern beach road. We found it by mistake:-) There, a local guide took us to the point where the flow went directly into the ocean. We left about 30 minutes before dusk and began walking on the old lave almost immediately. It was 2 1/4 miles each way. When we got about five minutes from our viewing site my feet were getting warm and I look down and the flow could be seen below us. We stayed at the site and saw a constant HUGE flow into the ocean the entire time we were there with pieces of lava the size of cars constantly breaking off and going into the ocean. The cost was 50 bucks a person and included bottled water, flashlights, raingear and when we got back pre-ordered sandwiches, salads and drinks were waiting for us at the local TIKI bar.

Bob

[Abbey]

I was on the big island in November and my husband and I did the same thing as CCSARCAP recommended to see the lava flow. First we walked to the actual public viewing area in Kalapana at the end of Highway 130... nice walk but all you could see from that point was an orange glow in the distance. But, this is where the local guides hang out organizing hiking tours down to where the lava enters the ocean. Very cool tour and very interesting hike over freshly cooled lava, some still hot to the touch, and we even crossed a black sand beach that was only formed 3 weeks earlier. The guide was very knowledgeable and informed us about some of the different trees and Hawaiian culture along the way. We paid $35 each but it didn't include water or food. Be sure to check this site to see the status of the lava flow before you go since it is always moving and changing: http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/hvo/activity/ ... status.php I can't remember our guide's name but he wasn't the one organizing at the parking lot, he was further down the road after you have to park, maybe 1/4 mile after the parking lot.
Another cool thing we did on the big island was to go into a lava tube that is not developed. If you get the blue guide book somebody else recommended, it is in the "Adventures" section. You literally park on the highway and walk about 90 yards into the rainforest to find the entrance into the tube. Then you can explore as far as you want, I think the tube runs a mile underground. Bring your headlamp!

Oh, and we stayed at the Coconut Cottage bed and breakfast near the lava viewing area in Kalapana and I'd recommend them. I also heard the sunset boat tour of the lava is great.

On Kauai we hiked to the Hanakapiai Falls on the NaPali coast -- 8 miles round trip and defintely recommend this too if you make it to Kauai.

[kimo]

Suggestions for Maui:

Last winter, I parked at Halemau'u Trailhead and hiked down into the crater using the Halemau'u Trail. I pitched my tent at the Holua campsite (permit required - issued only on the day of trip). On the second day I hiked from Holua to the Haleakala summit. My words can't do justice to the beauty of this area. Perhaps pictures can...
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=7681

The trip can be accomplished as a day trip:
Park at Halemau'u Trailhead. Hike into crater using the Halemau'u Trail. Take the Silversword Loop. Regain the Halemau'u Trail and continue southest into Pele's Paint Pot. The trail threads between towering cones made of multi-colored cinder. There is a web of trails here, explore as time/desire allows. At the Sliding Sands trail, turn right and start an ascent to the crater rim. The visitor center can be seen 3K feet above. Hike up good trail to the crater rim. Be sure to look back as the view opens up to the east. You'll meet hundreds of visitors soaking it in on the crater rim. Follow the road for a quarter mile to the summit house on Puuulaula. Hitch a ride with a visitor down to your vehicle at the Halemau'u Trailhead. On a typical day (even late in the day) there will be plenty of visitors to ask for a ride.

Here is map posted by the Park Service showing the trails and locations...
http://www.nps.gov/pwr/customcf/apps/ma ... nal%20Park

If interested in a a more solitary wilderness adventure, one can park at Halemauu Trailhead, follow the trail into the crater, cross the Koolau Gap, pass to the north of the Pele's Paint Pot area, and then gain the southwest ridge of Hanakauhi Peak. I have read from various on-line resources that a class 2 social trail exists up the ridge to the summit.

I leave for Maui in a few weeks. I plan to enjoy a couple nights at the far end of the crater at a lush place called Paliku. I may approach from the ocean at Kaupo if I can get a camping permit at the Kipahulu Visitor Center (last year they were not providing overnight permits from the Kipahulu VC). A visit to Kalapawili Ridge and Hanakauhi Peak are on the itinerary.

Paliku is seen here as the light green area beneath the cliffs at the very back of the crater. Hanakauhi Peak is on the far left. Kalapawili Ridge connects the two. The view is from the Sliding Sands Trail near the crater rim.


The road to Hana should not be missed while on Maui. It's a drive through old Hawaii. Rent a place and enjoy a night in Hana. Continue driving through Kipahulu, Kaupo, and all the way around Haleakala on day two. The Ulupalakua winery is along the road - enjoy a glass on the house.

I can not stress this enough:Spend a night in Hana. Nearly all visitors do the trip to Hana as a day trip. It is a long and stressful drive. They miss all of the hikes and goodness that the Hana Coast offers. And then some complain later that Hana isn't worth the drive. Enjoy a night in Hana...enjoy a night in Hana...it's real Hawaii...old Hawaii...do it right...
http://www.hanamaui.com/lodging.html

Bugs (centipedes, mosquitos, spiders, roaches) and geckos are a way of life here. Just be aware of that.

Near Hana, tent sites are available at Waianapanapa State Park. Past Hana, tent sites are available in the Kipahula district of the National Park.

Enjoy your trip.


Edit: This Yelp site cracks me up. It shows the love it/hate it opinion that many have for the road to Hana. Some just don't get it.
http://www.yelp.com/biz/road-to-hana-hana-2

[nyker]

Thanks everyone, all good ideas!

CCSARCAP /Abbey, the lava as you describe is something we'd love to see.

Kimo,

Very nice trip report.

Sounds like the Road to Hana, or at least the sketchy sections are best done
at or around sunrise to avoid crowds? ...and staying a night there is also the way to go.

That photos from the Sliding Sands is fantastic.

Are there other routes you'd recommend to hike to the Haleakala summit?

Out of curiosity, what settings did you use on your camera for the startrails?

[Tripper]

Others have given many ideas (which I will be looking into if I ever get baxk there..)

One simple option in Haleakala (if you don't have time for an overnite..) would be to drive up to the summit / visitors center... then hike down the sliding sands trail into the crated ... as far as you've got time for... then back up and out.

I did this as a day-trip a few years ago (had a few hours to kill from a cruise port-o-call) and it was awesome. (I will try to post a couple pics... then update this reply..)

Have a grand time!

Edit: Haven't figured posting pics here.. but here's links to the pics on panoramio...

http://www.panoramio.com/photo/30065652" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.panoramio.com/photo/30065638" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[kimo]

Thank you Nyker. I haven't read my Haleakala report in many months. Some trips make a tremendous impact. That was one such experience. I hope your adventure in Hawaii does the same for you.

Sounds like the Road to Hana, or at least the sketchy sections are best done at or around sunrise to avoid crowds? ...and staying a night there is also the way to go.

I think the best time to drive the road is in the dark. Driving to Hana at sunrise can be a head-on duel with the fast-driving local traffic who live in Hana but work in the city. Mid-to-late morning is popular for the visitor traffic heading to Hana. And in the afternoon visitors are returning from Hana as the locals try to get home. I've been on that road many times and haven't noticed any daylight hour being better than any other with regard to traffic.

The best advice I can give about driving the road to Hana is to leave all expectations, hurries, and concerns in Paia. And then put down the windows, turn on some tunes, and just cruise.

Enjoy a night in Hana. It's completely different from the other side of the island. It's subtle and seductive. It needs time to work its magic. Follow the Kings Trail through Waianapanapa, read a good book on the Red Sand Beach, take a walk up to Fagan's Cross, soak up some sun on Hamoa Beach, enjoy a swim in the pools of Oheo Gulch, take a hike to Waimoku Falls, and then finish your day with food and drink in the Paniolo Lounge at the Hotel Hana Maui. This is as good as it gets.

Are there other routes you'd recommend to hike to the Haleakala summit?

I know of four improved routes and one bushwack:

1. Park at the summit and hike down into the crater using the Sliding Sands Trail. Descend as time and desire allows. Turn around and hike back up. The is the most common way to experience the grandeur of Haleakala.

2. Park at Halemauu Trailhead, hike down into the crater using the Halemauu Trail. Join the Sliding Sands Trail and hike to the summit. Hitch a ride back down to your vehicle or walk the road (walking the road may be prohibited).

3. Park in Kaupo. Dip your toes in the sea. And then start hiking towards the Kaupo Gap. You reach the summit after 20 miles and 10023 feet of gain. Hike back down to Kaupo to complete a long day trip. Carry your tent and sleep in Paliku or rent the cabin at Kapalaoa or Paliku https://fhnp.org/wcr/

4. Approach the summit from Polipoli State Park using the Halekala Ridge Trail to the Skyline Trail.
http://www.hawaiistateparks.org/parks/m ... park_id=39
http://state.hi.us/dlnr/nah/maui/maps/map14.pdf

5. I can't recommend this but it is the mother of all Maui adventures - from the sea at Keanae through Koolau Gap to the summit. This approach requires infallible equipment and unequaled route finding. It may very well be impossible. The route visits untouched rain forest - thick, wet, unforgiving. This is one of the wettest places on Earth. There are many species of highly endangered endemic birds in this forest preserve. There is no mapped trail. I have found no written information about it. But I have heard from locals who live in Keanae that a rarely-traveled route does exists.

Out of curiosity, what settings did you use on your camera for the startrails?

I used a Sigma ultrawide lens set to 10mm. The camera was set at ISO 200 and manual exposure mode. I dialed in aperture at F/4 and set shutter to bulb (open for exactly 30 minutes, the maximum the Nikon D90 allows). In-camera long exposure noise reduction was turned on. After investing two hours in four not-so-good captures, I set the exposure compensation to -5.0EV. The photo I posted was the best result of five captures.

The huge negative exposure compensation was important to keep the sky from blowing out on such a long exposure. I'm just learning as I go - I should have adjusted the aperture to properly achieve the correct exposure rather than dialing in the negative EV.

Steph Abegg has created one of the richest resources for night photography on the web:
http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg ... hotography

I'd be happy to answer more questions if you have any.

[landcruiserbob]

I'm lucky enough to live on the Big Island for 6 months a year & in Vail/Moab the rest. I have lived on Oahu, & spent many years on Maui.

If you are only coming to the islands to hike mountains then you better focus mainly on The Big island & 4-5 days on Maui to hike the crater.

-Oahu for night life & beaches

-Maui for the wind sports

-Kauai for the beaches only & a day to hike waimea canyon

-The Big Island is Colorado with an ocean around it. There is a lot of aloha here & a lifetime of fun.

-Cycle up Haleakala or the Mauna Kea

-Stand up paddle board in Lahaina

-This is the best place in the world to train for TRI's & fitness sports

- Snow is coming this week abvove 12k feet.

-I live at 4,000ft & we hit 39 last night(sucked).

-I have some great bouldering problems that I'm working here in some out of the way lava tubes. Amazing hard sharp rock; not sure if I should bolt it since it's KAPU. I would hate for the menehune's to get pissed.


Be well

[lodgecamp]

Sorry I only skimmed some of the other posts if this sounds redundant....I was in Hawaii- Kaua'i, Oahu, and the Big Island for two weeks in September...I only spent 5 dollars for accomodations the entire time...once there finding places to camp is incredibly easy...you are supposed to pay 3 dollars a night for camping permits in most places but if you get caught it's 5 dollars on the spot...I got caught once in Anini state park on Kaua'i. The Kalalau Trail was only open for the first section of the trail 2 miles out and 2 miles back for trail restoration for the first time in a decade- I don't know how long that was lasting...I was there to kayak the Napal'i Coast- 17 miles- listed as one of the Nat Geos top ten adventures of a lifetime...that is from Spring til Fall as the swells in the winter rolling in off the Aleutians are up to 30 feet and no one paddles now. I did hike Mauna Kea. Arrived to the visitor center in the dark after unsuccessfully finding a nearby campground...Every night there is a star gazing meeting at the visitor center and i got to see the storms on the surface of Jupiter through a 30000 dollar telescope....after everyone left I slept in my car...Three seperate parties of kids woke me during the night who had come up to party from the college in Hilo...they were all equally surprized to see someone crawl out of the back of a car next to them...the initial section of the trail is/was supposedly closed due to high fire hazard- which seemed ridiculous- and I completely ignored going up and down. If you obey the closure it adds a considerable amount of distance to the round trip...the final section of the ascent is on the road only if you choose not to hop the retaining wall and hoof it up a few hundred vertical feet of volcanic scree- Taking the road is not necessary at any point. I went under a full moon and it as awesome... they were forecasting snow this past week up there....The coolest thing I did only partially but intend to go back and try again was the hike into the sacred valleys of Pololu on the north side of the island...If you drive through Kohala to the end of the road you come to the starting point...I met locals who told me of this area and of the historic significance...my original intent was to hike at least to the third valley in search of the lost village of Awini. This village which the specific location has never been determined is where the King Kamehameha was taken when he as born and raised in seclusion. The story is that there was a prophecy that a king would be born who would unite the chiefdoms and islands...Kamehameha was believed to be this prophetic leader and his life was in danger. The other Chiefs did not want unification. I only made it into the second valley. I was alone and this was thick spooky terrain. I feared Pakalolo growers and wild Boar- there was plenty of signs of Boar...If I had someone with me I would like to go further. From my understanding you could through hike the trail along the coast through many valleys- it may take a week. I would carry a rope, harness, slings, machette, Sat phone, GPS. In my opinion- this is the most secluded and greatest adventure possible in Hawaii and particuliarly on the Big Island.. You can obtain USGS maps of the entire area..

[jfox]

I just returned from a 9-day trip to Hawaii last week. While I didn't do any hiking/climbing...I was on vacation, I visited LOTS of beaches. I was on Oahu and the Big Island. Honolulu/Waikiki was terrible, overcrowded, noisy etc. but the north shore at Waimea and Sunset Beach were gorgeous! The Big Island, particularly Kailua-Kona was great. I did a lot of snorkeling right off the beach (Turtle) and the tropical fish and Honu (sea-turtles) were everywhere. Just north of there, is a great secluded black-sand beach that had turtles and fish too. I took a boat trip to snorkel with dolphins off the coast of Kona too which was incredible. Hundreds of them are in the bays now resting after a night of feeding.

If you're in Kona and like coffee, visit any of the coffee plantations there. Free samples of some really good coffee and all the shops and markets sell great local coffee. I did visit Volcanoes NP as well for one day, which wasn't nearly enough. I still want to do the hike out to the lava and will do probably next trip. The Hilo side of Hawaii is very rainy, lush and tropical, whereas the Kona side is dry and sunny. I did the entire circum-navigation of the island which is a nice easy drive and very scenic. PM me if you're interested in good beaches and snorkeling spots on the Big Island or Oahu's north shore.