Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

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DestroyMySweater
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Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by DestroyMySweater »

Hello! I'm finally getting around to registering after lurking here for a while. I've been trying to step up my snow climbing / couloir game and get to steeper pitches. So far I've just used spikes and my Hillsound Trail Crampons Pro (which are pretty great actually). But I was wondering if I need to make the switch to mountaineering boots and full automatic step-in crampons. (I'm not a skier or boarder so I'd rather avoid it if I could ...). Do you think you can front point effectively with just strap-on crampons and a good stiff hiking/packing boot?

Thanks for all the good advice I've already read on here.
Last edited by DestroyMySweater on Mon May 24, 2021 8:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by d_baker »

I think if you're climbing moderate (30-45ish degree) snow climbs, strap-ons will likely be fine for you. But also depends on conditions; the harder/firmer the surface -- the puckier it will feel.
Softer conditions, when getting steeper, won't feel so bad.
In most conditions you're not front pointing anyway.
Steep lines or alpine ice, or water ice, front pointing comes more into play, and for me, that's when I would want my mountaineering boots and step-in crampons.
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by cottonmountaineering »

strap in crampons are fine for anything short of water ice/mixed, good boot fit is key to making them work correctly, a lot of normal hiking boots are quite flexible and/or have no toe protection which will mess up your feet and make the crampons fall off
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by susanjoypaul »

I have a couple pairs of strap-ons and have used them a lot on steep couloirs, glaciers, and even ice climbing with no problems. If I were going to do a lot more ice climbing, I'd get some step-ins but for a couple of times a year, I can't justify the cost.

Mountaineering boots, for me, are more important. They're warmer, keep my feet drier, and they usually have a full shank that takes the brunt of the force when you kick steps in hard snow. I can't imagine hiking steep snow in regular hiking boots.
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by Scott P »

Strap on crampons were used for decades on hard ice routes before steps ins were invented so of course you can use them.

Decades later and in more modern times, when speaking of the Eiger Nordwand's first ascent, I believe it was Heinrich Harrer who was quized on the ascent and was asked how they climbed the Nordwand in such primitive gear. His response was "whether or not one climbed the Nordwand was not dependent on the droop of one's ice axe".

Of course step ins are much better and more convenient to use. If you can afford it and will use them regularly, yes get them. If not, you can still climb in strap ons.

I must say so though, that anti-balling plates on crampons are a godsend and highly recommended. I don't thing any strap ons have anti-balling plates.
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DestroyMySweater
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by DestroyMySweater »

The Hillsound Trail Crampons (Pro) have anti-balling plates: https://hillsound.com/products/trail-crampon-pro. And I'm pretty sure the other strap-on crampons I've seen have them:

https://www.rei.com/product/798354/blac ... abs-plates

https://www.rei.com/product/167471/camp ... l-crampons
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by Scott P »

DestroyMySweater wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 8:23 pm The Hillsound Trail Crampons (Pro) have anti-balling plates: https://hillsound.com/products/trail-crampon-pro. And I'm pretty sure the other strap-on crampons I've seen have them:

https://www.rei.com/product/798354/blac ... abs-plates

https://www.rei.com/product/167471/camp ... l-crampons
Cool. :thumbup: Mine are several years old, so I have been out of the loop.
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by DestroyMySweater »

I'm not looking to do any serious ice climbing (like waterfalls or Ouray Park or something). Sheepishly I don't really know the types of ice that people list here, though. What exactly is alpine ice, water ice, mixed ice? I sort of thought ice was ice. I mean, I've definitely encountered ice on climbs -- the dark ice that's really thin, ice that looks like it has melted and re-frozen, and ice that seems like snow that has just hardened. So far this hasn't been on anything too steep so it's not been too big a deal (though I have had to skirt around spots rather than attacking them head on...).
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by Conor »

Without an objective or goal, it is hard to make a recommendation. But...I would love a pair of "summer mountaineering" boots that are much more flexible in the shank and lighter. A semi auto to match would be an ideal setup that gets me through 95% of what I will ever climb. Good for easy WI or even AI. If looking for modular crampons go petzl unless BD has "Fixed" their non-modular nature.

I once met a person in a couloir who admitted it was their first snow climb. My comment to them was my calves were tired just watching them in the first couple hundred feet. I then went over a few crampon techniques with them. front pointing has its place, but learn solid techniques. your calves will thank me.

french technique is what I use the most.
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by Wildernessjane »

I use strap on crampons almost exclusively unless I’m going to be on ice or lots of mixed terrain. I would have no qualms using them on steep snow and have even used them with approach shoes for short sections of snow. The stiffness of the boot you are wearing them with will make the biggest difference (a stiffer boot will feel much more secure). On a side note, I used strap on crampons with my Oboz this past winter and that didn’t play out so well. I wouldn’t recommend it. I have a pair of Grivel Air Techs and Black Diamond Sabretooth crampons (I think the strap on version might now be called the Contact). Both are great but I find the Sabretooths to be more secure/durable for scrambling. Either would be a huge improvement over what you are using now. Like others have said though, you’re not typically going to be “front pointing” up a couloir unless you can kick in nice bucket steps.
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by Aphelion »

I'll add another echo to the 'get real boots' advice. Yeah, you can pull off using strapons on a hiking boot for moderate snow, but putting them on a shanked mountaineering boot is so much safer/easier. And you don't have to jump for a full $$$ winter boot either, my go-to footwear for spring climbs is the Salewa Crow. And, as has been pointed out, there's more to crampons than just the front points.
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Re: Front Pointing on Strap-On Crampons

Post by TheRealRooster »

The responses here are spot on with my experience, so I won't echo them. I will note, however, that if you choose to use strap-on crampons for any manner of ice after climbing snow for a bit, be sure to re-check the fit. If you climb a couple of thousand feet in strap-ons, or even semi-autos, the straps are likely to loosen a bit along the way. If the top of the couloir is suddenly bulletproof and pitching up a little bit you'll want to make sure they're tight again before committing to front pointing, because it's not fun to blow a crampon in a spot like that. Trust me on that one!
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