Is This Bomber?

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Been_Jammin
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Re: Is This Bomber?

Post by Been_Jammin » Fri Apr 02, 2021 9:09 am

TomPierce wrote:
Fri Apr 02, 2021 8:12 am
Monster5 wrote:
Fri Apr 02, 2021 8:05 am
Jorts - those loads (assuming they all get loaded) are essentially acting on only two points of the carabiner with two resultant forces. Further, the loads at each point are at a small angle to one another. Triaxial load tests rely on loading three different parts of the carabiner with three different resultant forces at broader angles.
Testing has shown that, for instance, double loads on the small end of a pear-shaped carabiner hardly reduce strength, whereas double loads on the big end do. In all cases, the breaking strenth was still ridiculously strong and well above any force that could be seen in climbing.
...particulalrly the forces generated by a second slipping/falling from below. Hence my earlier comment that the biner loading issue might be more academic vs. real world.

But again, all input is good to round out the discussion. I love this stuff.

-Tom
I love this stuff too! I might love nerding out on rope systems just as much as climbing itself.
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Been_Jammin
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Re: Is This Bomber?

Post by Been_Jammin » Fri Apr 02, 2021 9:16 am

FireOnTheMountain wrote:
Fri Apr 02, 2021 8:48 am
Been_Jammin wrote:
Thu Apr 01, 2021 10:54 pm
Using a sling would of been simpler.
Using the rope as part of the anchor can be nifty. A simpler approach would have been to perhaps just wrap the horn as you did then tie a fig 8 on a bite with both strands coming off the horn (will require a good amount of excess rope in the system, which it appears you had plenty of). Now you got a masterpoint to clip to and guide mode off. Guide mode off the MP will also help with forcing to keep the rope at a downward angle and not pop up over the top of the horn.

Not sure I fully follow your arresting a fall argument if the horn were to break but I also wasnt there. I'm just saying the above would have worked assuming the horn is bomber itself.
The horn was bomber... so I'm agreeing with feedback provided in this thread that I didn't need to put myself (as the belayer) in the system. Sylvester Stallone says something in Cliffhanger like, "you go, I go." lol... maybe that was my logic.
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Been_Jammin
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Re: Is This Bomber?

Post by Been_Jammin » Fri Apr 02, 2021 9:23 am

[/quote]

The horn was bomber... so I'm agreeing with feedback provided in this thread that I didn't need to put myself (as the belayer) in the system. Sylvester Stallone says something in Cliffhanger like, "you go, I go." lol... maybe that was my logic.
[/quote]

Actually the more I think about it (and procrastinate at work) I think this is a Kurt Russel line from the movie Backdraft. Happy Friday everyone!
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highpilgrim
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Re: Is This Bomber?

Post by highpilgrim » Fri Apr 02, 2021 11:22 am

Been_Jammin wrote:
Fri Apr 02, 2021 9:23 am
Actually the more I think about it (and procrastinate at work) I think this is a Kurt Russel line from the movie Backdraft.
Yep, I think you're right. Great movie.

Call on God, but row away from the rocks.
Hunter S Thompson

Walk away from the droning and leave the hive behind.
Dick Derkase
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