Non-standard routes are typically more difficult than the standard route which is why the difficult of any mountain is defined by how difficult the easiest (standard) route is.
I think the reason people’s opinion differ on this topic may be the order in which they summit the harder 14ers. The more you get used to exposure, rockfall and duration of climb, the less intimidating future peaks are. The conditions at the time of your climb also play a factor and change how difficult the standard route can be.
Little Bear’s hourglass is much easier as a snow climb. Even without snow it can be difficult when water is running down it. It is even harder if there is ice over the rock. People who rely on the rope may have an added sense of security than those who don’t. Without snow, rockfall is a significant issue, especially if people are climbing on the crap rock a hundred feet above you.
I did Little Bear after the Bells but before Capitol. I did not use the rope but made sure it was close by. The hourglass was free of snow with water going down the center. There was a climber above us who dislodged a few rocks down on us. These are some of the more difficult conditions. As a result, for me my climb of Little Bear was harder than any other 14er.
Here is a picture showing the steepness.
- Hour Glass
- WP_20140921_032.jpg (184.04 KiB) Viewed 1924 times
Century Bound, eventually.
