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daway8 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 12:44 pm
Being an engineer, that's hard to get used to. Oh well, at least the distinctions are becoming slightly less blurry to the point I can hopefully avoid dramatically misleading anyone when describing routes.
Hah yea same, specially when the class is prefixed by the word "difficult", then it just becomes entirely arbitrary.
But ultimately, you need to observe the route/terrain and determine yourself how to approach it and what gear to use. If you are told it's Class 4 but you when you look at it, it seems way harder than all the other Class4s you have done before and you are solo, then be conservative and assume it's Class 5. My two cents.
Those who travel to mountain-tops are half in love with themselves and half in love with oblivion
I have also trouble knowing what to call something. I am sure some low 5th I have called 4 or even 3 if I did it without a rope, especially if it was only one or two moves. I have probably called a few things 3 that someone else might call 4. If they get really route-findy I try and cover my bases and tell people to expect class 4, especially if something was a little reachy for me (I'm 6'1, so my class 3 hold might not be reachable for a shorter climber)
Personally the I think the hardest grade to decipher is 5.9+. Those were typically graded with 5.9 was the highest, so all it meant was it was harder than the hardest climbs at the time. It could be a 10a, or an 11d for all you know. Especially if its an older route before anyone used 5.10 and above grading.
"We want the unpopular challenge. We want to test our intellect!" - Snapcase
"You are not what you own" - Fugazi
"Life's a mountain not a beach" - Fortune Cookie I got at lunch the other day
Mountaineering doesn't respect contrivance. This is in contrast with rock climbing (except as a mountaineering discipline), which seems to thrive on it.
One day some idiots and I traversed a ridge that has a bunch of towers on it. We climbed every single tower. The established route, which though it bypasses the towers doesn't go out of its way to avoid scrambling, takes the more logical path. What we did was painfully stupid, took all day, and no one cares except for Monster5.
I once climbed a technical route on a mountain but, off-route and unable to make the crux move, I pulled on my gear. It could not be said that I established an A0 variation, although I did climb A0.
There's nothing wrong with seeking a challenge, of course.
ker0uac wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 1:36 pm
If you are told it's Class 4 but you when you look at it, it seems way harder than all the other Class4s you have done before and you are solo, then be conservative and assume it's Class 5. My two cents.
Yes, for sure. I'm less concerned at the moment with interpreting other people's ratings than I am with not misleading anyone who might happen to read one of my trip reports. I've often used people's trip reports as a starting point for deciding what 13ers to go after and at least a person or two has confirmed making use of mine at times. The more accurate I can be the less I'll lure people into stuff too difficult for them or entice them into what turns out to be a let down.
I'm pretty comfortable with discerning if I can do what's in front of me - so far I'm having more trouble finding enough challenge rather than too much, but I'm intentionally choosing easy routes where I can do optional difficult moves where I can grow my confidence in fun but comparatively low risk terrain before taking on routes that are all or nothing.
Boggy B wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 5:06 pm
I once climbed a technical route on a mountain but, off-route and unable to make the crux move, I pulled on my gear. It could not be said that I established an A0 variation, although I did climb A0.
Did you self flagellate afterwards? I sure hope so, and if so then it is OK. If not, consider yourself reported.
