Classic 14er Routes per Range

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John Landers
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Re: Classic 14er Routes per Range

Postby John Landers » Tue Apr 16, 2013 5:18 pm

Front - Longs by Kiener's

Tenmile - Quandary by west ridge or Cristo couloir

Mosquito - none

Sawatch - Holy Cross - Cross couloir, can add halo ridge
La Plata - Ellingwood Ridge

Sange de Cristo - Crestone Needle - Ellingwood Arete

Elks - Snowmass via Lead King Basin to Snowmass Peak to Hagerman Peak to Snowmass Mtn traverse

San Juans - Sneffels by North Buttress
Wilson Peak by Northwest Face (with snow)

13er's - Vestal by Wham Ridge
Thunder Pyramid - by couloir with un 13,722' descend west face with snow - beautiful area and excellent views
Peak C - couloir with snow
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Re: Classic 14er Routes per Range

Postby Winter8000m » Tue Apr 16, 2013 5:35 pm

Since I have Bronchitis, decided to put some time into my favorites.

Route: Schobingers Chimney, Diamond, Long's Peak (Anything on the Diamond really) Ole #6 mixed route, Corinthian Column, Pikes Peak
Reason: Former is definitely one of the more esthetic and beautiful lines I've enjoyed in Colorado that sports some history. The position of where you are (left side of Diamond), the challenging climbing that included a hanging dagger on pitch 1 and true mixed on every pitch with overhanging traditionally protected dry tooling in the high mountains. The unknown of not knowing what was up there. Getting there took climbing a mixed route on the Lower East Face and traversing Broadway to the route and then the step around move on Kiener's to the summit. The fact of having a phenomenal mixed climb on one of the most beautiful faces in CO makes it a instant classic imo! Latter is a wild modernized multi pitch mixed route complete with a roof at the top. Even has ice on P1!

Route: Angel of Shavano?
Reason: Because that's the last thing I've done in the Sawatch range and hopefully the last until I retire. 8)

Route: Lincoln
Reason: Most memorable because I almost died when I first did it from a nasty fall. A fall. No kidding. #-o ](*,) :wft:

Route: W ridge Quandary
Reason: Better then the standard. Fun with snow. Though I must admit, I was a bit depressed when I did it. I always played it out in my head that it was full of Class 4 and scrambling. When I actually did it, the scrambling ended when I started enjoying it.

Sangre de Cristo
*Route(s): Never been to the Sangre's.....weird. I've always wanted to link up the Prow and Ellingwood Arete in a day or go on a search for mixed. :mrgreen:

Route(s): Can't help but choose the Capitol Peak Snowmass Mountain ridge traverse or Capitol Peak in snow.
Reason(s): Hate to say it but it's the ultimate 14'er ridge traverse. All 4 or something miles of it. (longer and WAY looser then it looks) The position is one of the best in CO as you are up there for a while. Though it's dangerous (the Bells traverse is way solid and safe compared to it) and scary with dangerous mid 5th class climbing (you getting the point?) and sustaned (Only one small section of Class 2/3 really) I can't help but dream of going back every summer to try to do it again in a day. :-k The fact of who I went with too made the trip. Kiefer T, Steve Gladbach, and Mike aka oldschool. Solid dudes, solid route (in the classic sort of way :wink: )

San Juan
Route: El Diente, North Buttress 4th class fall ascent that turned into 5.hard
Reason: Because it was memorable and I thought I was going to die. Did it in early fall when I didn't know that snow in fall is SUGAR! Scary. I almost got attacked by a bear on a unplanned bivy at tree line at Killpacker basin. No joke. Had an ice axe though. Inexperience with the sense of immortality will get the best of you! Or wisdom should I say....Almost died three times that summer. This trip, Bells traverse incident, and 50 foot free fall on Lincoln. My parents grounded me from mountain climbing that winter but allowed me to ice climb.

The 13er Route of Choice
Lizard Head!
Route(s): Standard route
Reason(s): It's like a desert tower (Castleton Tower) at 13k! Made ever better with the summit ridge coated in snow.


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Re: Classic 14er Routes per Range

Postby Corndiggs » Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:06 pm

Limiting it to the ones I've actually done:

Torrey's Kelso Ridge : quick and fun ridge route with a mini knife edge finish

Standard on Quandary - default

Standard on Democrat - default again

Northeast Slopes of Tabeguache via Brown's Creek Approach - one of my favorite backpacking routes on a 14er. No crowds, great fishing, and nice falls on the way.

South Face of Crestone Needle - the funnest 1,000 ft of climbing I've ever had the pleasure to do.

SW Ridge of Sneffels - awesome ridge climb that looks much more daunting than it is. This was hard the hardest to pick. Wetterhorn standard, Eolus standard and Handies from Grizzly Gulch were close runner-ups.

Northeast ridge of Castle - again, by default. It should hopefully change this summer.
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Steve Climber
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Re: Classic 14er Routes per Range

Postby Steve Climber » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:20 am

Kelso Ridge on Torreys - Fun scramble, close access, epic views of Jamestown exit and traffic conditions for return :roll:

Tenmile / Mosquito
Quandary Cristo Couloir - Great introductory snowclimb, quick access, decent views

Democrat SW ridge - Amazing scrambling playground for ENTIRE ridge (as easy or hard as you want to make it), spectacular views of Apex and Kite Lake areas, great alternative to standard slog (and when the standard hikers see you top out from that side, you get mad props and ego points :-$ )

Belford/Oxford/Emerald/Iowa/Missouri circuit - Strenuous day but very rewarding, awesome exposure to several different areas (views of Missouri Gulch to start and end your day, Missouri Basin from Elkhead Pass, Ice / Apostles views, greatness every direction you turn)

I haven't climbed outside these ranges, so I can't offer much up for anything else.
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