Route Description

Take Exit 240 at Idaho Springs on Interstate 70. Drive south on Colorado 103 for 13.5 miles to Echo Lake. Pay the entrance fee and drive 9 miles up the Mt. Evans road (Colorado 5) to the Summit Lake parking area.

Details:

This is the best ski route on Evan's north face. Crampons are very helpful between 13,400' and the top of the snow below the summit ridge. Photo #1 shows most of the route seen from the parking area near Summit Lake. In the photo you can see that you must ascend a bench that rises up in the east end of the Summit Lake bowl.

Walk out onto the Mt. Evans road, turn right, and follow the road. After a short distance, the road crosses the east drainage of Summit Lake. Leave the road on the right side and walk across grass and rocks until you reach the base of the slope. Your immediate goal is to ascend the slope up to the small bowl below the north face. Climb 470' of elevation and 1/3 mile up to the top of this slope at 13,300'. You now have an unobstructed view of the north face. The summit is up to your left, but this route climbs the snow in the easiest portion of the north face. Photo #2 shows the view from here.

Take your time and pick your line up through the snow. I found it easiest (and safest) to start on the left side, and cross into the rocks near the center and then follow the rocks up through the center of the snow. Descend into the small bowl, pass the tiny lake, and begin your ascent up across boulders toward the left side of the snow field. From the tiny lake, you must climb approximately 780' of elevation to reach the summit ridge. Carefully climb up the snow as you aim for the top of the snow the ends below the lowest part of the ridge above. As you near 13,900', the snow field starts to narrow below the lowest portion of the ridge above. Climb straight up along the rocks (now left of the main snow route) and you will reach the top of the snow between 13,900' and the ridge (above 14,100').

If you are not skiing, continue up through the rocks to reach the ridge. Photo #4 shows the upper portion of the face with some snow - Photo #5 shows it melted out. Turn left and hike 0.13 miles to the summit. I recommend a descent via the northeast face (See Route #5 on the previous page).

Skiing?:

If you brought your skis, snap in near the top of the snow. Photo #3 looks down on the route from 14,000'. It is steep. A fall here could be your last - it's a long tumble to the bottom. You can ski almost to the tiny lake. Repeat if necessary.