Once at the summer trailhead, cross the bridge and follow the well-defined Grays trail into Stevens Gulch. Follow the trail for 1.5 miles to a trail sign near 12,100'. Continue to a flat area at 12,300' and up a small hill, with Torreys in view -
1. Near 12,400', leave the trail and hike southwest toward Torreys and Dead Dog Couloir-
2. Continue to a small basin below the run-out of Dead Dog -
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This is a good place to put on your helmet and crampons, and turn on your avalanche beacon. Reach the large snow "apron" below the couloir and start climbing -
5. The terrain quickly gets steeper and the route ahead is obvious as you climb toward the couloir. Near 13,000', the terrain narrows as you enter the couloir -
6 and
7. Just above the entrance to the couloir, you may see a rock outcrop in the center - continue to the rock outcrop at 13,200' where the pitch eases a bit -
8. Dead Dog may look very steep during your early morning approach, but most of it is below 40 degrees.
Rockfall is a hazard in Dead Dog and you may encounter small rocks dropping into the right side of the couloir so it may be safer to stay near the left side. Continue climbing (
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11, and
12) to 13,800' where the route turns slightly to the right. Near 13,900, pass a rock outcrop on the right and continue toward the top of the couloir -
13. Now, depending on how much snow has been deposited at the top, you may be faced with snow angle of 45 to 50 degrees and you may also encounter a cornice. Climb the remaining snow as you aim for the left side of the white rocks seen in
14. More views from this area -
15. Climb the steepest portion of the route and exit the top of Dead Dog -
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17. Turn left (south) and climb the remaining 200 feet (
18) to reach the summit -
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