This is a popular winter route because it provides the safest and shortest winter ascent of Humboldt. In summer, the route does not have a trail and plenty of route-finding is required. The standard, west ridge route is recommended in summer.
Starting low on the South Colony Lakes road, it follows Humboldt's broad east ridge which can be seen from the Wet Mountain Valley as you drive to the trailhead -
1. The remainder of this description will describe the climb when snow-covered. First, drive to the South Colony Lakes (Approach) road where you'll probably encounter the winter closure at the intersection between 1.0 and 1.3 miles up the dirt road after you turn right off of Colfax Lane. Depending on the road closure, drive or hike 2.5 miles up the road to reach the Rainbow Trail junction near 9,800' -
2.
Just after the sign, turn right (
3) and follow the Rainbow Trail down to South Colony Creek and cross the creek on a small bridge -
4. The trail may be difficult to follow with snow cover so it may be helpful to know that your upcoming goal is to simply gain the small ridge located 0.2 miles northwest of the creek crossing. Follow the trail northwest and north for less than 0.2 miles and turn left (
5) off the trail and ascend 150' to reach the ridge -
6. As shown on the
topo map, you can also stay on the Rainbow Trail and reach the east ridge via a longer route to the north but that variation doesn't really make the hike any easier, just a bit longer.
Once on the ridge, turn left and hike southwest through the trees, staying on the crest of the narrow ridge. A portion of the upper route is briefly visible -
7. Continue along the ridge and begin to turn west near 10,400' to avoid steeper terrain down to your left -
8. Near 10,600' the trees get a bit thicker (
9) and the terrain becomes steeper as you climb west and then slightly northwest up the gentle ridge. Above 11,100' the pitch eases and route-finding may become in issue. Just continue west-northwest and you'll encounter shorter, more open trees. Hike west to exit the trees near 11,800' -
10. From here, it's less than 2 miles to the summit.
Route-finding is much easier from this point. Walk across a large flat area near 12,000' (
11 and
12) and begin to hike up a long stretch of ridge that will take you above 13,200' -
13. As you ascend, keep the north (right) edge of the ridge in sight (
14) to avoid hiking too far to the west (left).
15 looks down on this portion of the route.
Above 13,200' the summit finally comes into view (
16), but it's still a mile away. Walk west along the ridge and the route becomes a bit more clear -
17. Ascend a 13,500-foot bump (
18 and
19) to reach more dramatic terrain; the ridge narrows and there are drop-offs to your right. Carefully continue along the ridge (
20) to reach the final, 400-foot pitch -
21. Because you're looking at the pitch head-on, it appears steeper than it really is. Follow the edge of the ridge (
22) toward the summit. If you're lucky, the gaps between the upper rocks will be filled in with firm snow. Angle left through some rocks near the top to reach the summit.
23 looks down on the final pitch.