STOP! Yes, this is the standard way to climb Harvard and Columbia in one day but it's a long, strenuous hike, on rocky terrain, WITHOUT A TRAIL. If you're a novice hiker, consider doing these peaks separately, on different days. There have been many Search and Rescue (SAR) missions on this route because of ill-prepared or inexperienced hikers.
First, follow the
Mt. Harvard - South Slopes Route to reach the summit of Harvard. You'll need a few hours to get to Mt. Columbia so don't start the 3-mile traverse if the weather is deteriorating -
1. Hike east along Harvard's summit ridge (
2) to a notch -
3. Dip down and pass a rock outcropping to regain the ridge. Near the east end of Harvard's summit ridge, pass a rocky point on either side (
4 and
5) to reach a small, flat area. Begin descending southeast down the ridge towards a pointed rock formation, near 14,100' -
6,
7 and
8. Pass on the right (
8) and follow a faint trail through talus on the south side of the ridge -
9.
Once back on the ridge, follow a trail down toward a prominent 13,516-foot point -
10 and
11. Once you've descended to approx. 13,450', contour around the north side of Point 13,516' -
12. What little trail you've followed will disappear when you reach the talus on the north side of this point.
13 looks back at the descent from Harvard. Continue around the north side of the point (
14) to reach its east ridge where you'll get an excellent view of the remaining route -
15. From the edge of Point 13,516', some people drop directly down a steep, loose gully but DON'T DO IT. It's safer to turn left and descend the point's east ridge -
16. Hike down the ridge and turn right between 12,800' and 12,500' where you feel comfortable leaving the ridge -
17 and
18.
The route becomes more tedious at this point. Contour south into the talus near the base of the connecting ridge -
19. Hike over or below a large talus pile and continue across a lot more talus -
20 and
21. Once you pass below the "rabbit" (
22), you'll begin your ascent towards Columbia -
23.
24 looks back from approx. 12,900'. Continue on the talus as you approach 13,000' and easier terrain -
25. Above 13,000' Columbia's summit comes into view as you hike right (south) around Point 13,497' -
26 and
27. Cross easy, grassy terrain and hike toward the left side of the saddle between Columbia and Point 13,497' -
28 and
29.
Reach the ridge crest near 13,400' and turn left to follow the ridge toward the summit -
30 and
31. Near 13,900', stay slightly left and climb about 100' of steeper rock (
32 and
33) and then walk over to the summit -
34 and
35. To return to Horn Fork Basin, descend via the
Mt. Columbia - West Slopes Route.